Round & About’s resident wine columnist Giles Luckett indulges his passion for Rioja and picks his top 12 bottles to savour for 2026.
Rioja is an incredible wine region. Not only is it a treasure trove of affordable fine wines, its diversity and constant evolution mean that there’s always something to get excited about. Over the last few weeks I’ve tasted my way through over 100 wines (yup, tough life) and here are my top 12 Riojas for 2026.
First up, the Bhilar Plots Rioja Blanco (All About Wine £18.99). White Rioja used to be a heavy, ponderous wine with more oak than Sherwood Forest and all the energy of an elderly sloth. Modern white Rioja, however, can be fresh and zesty, majestically mellow, or rich and oaky, offering wonderfully diverting wines in every style. The Bhilar is at the lively end of the spectrum. Made from 90% Viura with 10% Garnacha Blanca adding richness, it offers a fresh, appetising nose of lemon, green pears, and ginger, with a touch of peach and honey. In the mouth, it’s clean and tangy with yellow citrus and stone fruits nicely offset by marzipan and a steely, mineral finish. A stylish aperitif, it also pairs well with aromatic Oriental foods.
If you’re in the mood for a white that combines sophistication with concentration, then try the Contino San Gregorio Blanco (Vinum £28.20). I’ve long considered Contino to have the Midas touch – almost literally in the case of this white golden stunner – and while its reds get most of the acclaim, its whites are just as compelling. This treads a fine line between weight and delicacy, tradition and modernity, and is made from old (35–40-year-old) vines that add significant complexity. Fragrances of apple blossom and acacia are supported by buttery oak, giving an intricate, unshowy introduction. The palate is equally intriguing. Pear, apple, yellow plum and grapefruit are rounded off by toasty vanilla, and while there’s intensity here, it’s presented in a graceful fashion. I’ve always found this to be at its best after it’s had time to breathe and when served with white meat or fish
In striking contrast, we have the Faustino Gran Reserva Blanco (Waitrose £20). Four years in oak and the (unusual) addition of Chardonnay make for a rich, spicy wine with bags of character. Loaded with stone fruits and with a generous seasoning of tropical and buttery notes, this could easily have become one of those old-school white Riojas that overwhelm. Modern winemaking and a keen eye for detail have kept it bright and balanced, though, giving it a best-of-both-worlds unctuous and clean character that had me coming back for more.
Rioja rosé remains one of the wine world’s great affordable joys. Again, the range is wide, from nothing-to-worry-about quaffers to serious examples that can develop in the bottle for many years. Two of my current favourites are the Casa La Rad Solarce (Perfect Cellar £14.95) and the Muga Rosado (Majestic £14.50 or £12 on a mixed six).
The Solarce, like all Casa La Rad wines, is meticulously made and lets the grapes do the talking. Ghostly pale, the bouquet is a cleansing mix of red berries, white currants and cherry blossom. Immediately fresh and crisp, as you sip it, blackberry and cherry stone flavours add depth to its bright and breezy berry nature. At the finish, there’s a touch of mint, and dusty minerals bring it to a dry, firm end. Enjoy this with smoked fish or pink lamb.
Muga isn’t just one of my favourite Rioja producers; it’s one of my favourite producers, full stop. Everything they make, from their creamy, scented white to their magnificent reds, the pick of which is the ‘Selección Especial’, is so generous and nuanced that they always delight. The Rosado is mid-pink and offers scents of crushed cherries, loganberries, rhubarb and almond paste. Textured and juicy, there’s ripeness to the berry fruit, and while the acidity is cleansing, it’s not bright or intrusive. I’ve had this on its own, with seafood, pork and Thai dishes, and it’s always paired brilliantly.
Of course, when most of us think of Rioja, it’s red wines that come to mind. The number of grapes, multiplicity of sites (Rioja is blessed with a bewildering array of microclimates and soils), and winemaking techniques mean you could drink Rioja Tinto every day of the year and never have the same wine twice – one of my tasks for my retirement. The following gives a flavour of the diversity that’s currently on offer.
The 18th of September was International Grenache Day (did you put out bunting?), and as part of my celebrations, I tasted a flight of wines including the Bodegas Burgo Viejo (Vinatis £8.95). Awarded 90 points by the legendary critic Robert Parker, this joyous little wine is simply lovely. Made in the ‘Joven’ style without oak ageing, it’s purple-hued and full of energy. Fruits of the forest, cherries, wild mint, chocolate, and tangy red berries fill this medium-bodied, soft-hearted wine that has a deliciously fresh, zesty feel. Perfect for a mid-week pizza or bowl of pasta, it’s a lot of wine for very little money.
Brilliance on a budget can also be found in the Beronia Reserva (Majestic £17.50 or £16.50 on a mixed six). While I love the juicy intensity of the Beronia Crianza (Majestic £12.50 or £11.50 on a mixed six), the richness, depth and concentration of the Reserva make it well worth the extra money. Beronia is a modern estate; it was founded in 1973, and its wines offer a modern take on the classics. The Reserva is inky purple and has a fantastic nose of crushed black fruits, charcoal, wild herbs, spices and smoke. Concentrated and enthusiastic, on tasting it there’s a rush of smoked blackberries with an undercurrent of earth, toast, peel, and flowers. Give this a couple of hours open and serve with a steak or rich tomato-heavy dishes.
The Marques de Murrieta 2019 (Vinum £27.55) is about as traditional as Rioja gets. Long oak and extended bottle ageing have produced a powerful, sensuous, indulgent wine. 20 months in cask could easily produce a wine that’s all wood and no fruit, but the exceptionally high-quality grapes used to make it allow it to absorb the woody, oxidative elements and emerge as greater than the sum of its parts. Exotic, hedonistic, and vibrant, black fruits, creamy vanilla, prunes, orange zest and sage are just some of the aromas and flavours present in this Christmas cake-rich confection. Still young, it needs air to bloom, so serve it with hearty meat and cheese dishes.
For many, Gran Reservas are Rioja’s greatest wines. Requiring at least two years in oak and two to three years in bottle before release, they’re only made in fine years. While I find many too woody and with a tendency to excessive oxidation, wines like the Faustino I Gran Reserva (Tesco £18.50) balance fruit and secondary characteristics beautifully. Ruby red, aromas of cherries, tobacco, cinnamon and cocoa offer a fitting preamble to the luscious, weighty palate. Cooked black and red berries, butter, blackcurrant boiled sweets, citrus peel and bitter chocolate come together seamlessly, giving a satisfyingly weighty wine that isn’t overwhelming. Serve this with roasted red meats, mushrooms, or charcuterie.
The Contino Graciano (Vinum £48.40) is a rare example of a varietal Rioja made from Graciano. Graciano is a low-yielding vine giving bold wines with fantastic concentration and great ageing potential. This is certainly the case with the Contino. Blackberry, raspberry, and spice notes rise from the glass, and the expansive palate offers blackcurrants and blackberries, black cherries, plums, and savoury notes of leather, tobacco, and dark chocolate. On the long finish, grippy tannins and redcurrant freshness bring things to a cleansing conclusion. Unusual and fascinating, this is a wine every Rioja lover should experience.
The Finca Valpiedra Petra de Valpiedra (All About Wine £46.99) is a wine that takes me back to my earliest trade days when I was introduced to the magnificent Riojas of Martinez-Bujanda, the family who own this extraordinary estate. Being 100% Garnacha, you could be forgiven for thinking this would be a lighter, softer style of Rioja made for early drinking. Nothing could be further from the truth. Deep ruby, the bouquet is an entrancing mix of cassis and wild red berries with creamy oak and orange peel at the periphery. It’s immediately fresh and tangy, with strawberries and red cherries vying for your attention, while mulberry, plum, and red pear flavours lie in the background. The finish is dry and fresh, the rounded tannins and boiled sweet aftertaste calling you back for another sip. The ideal partner to paella or charcuterie, this is breathtakingly good Garnacha.
I’ll finish with a wine that warrants its 98/100 score from The Wine Advocate: the Bodega Lanzaga, Tabuerniga Rioja 2020 (NY Wines £82.95). The brainchild of one of Spain’s greatest winemakers,
Telmo Rodriguez, its fragrant blend of wild herbs, dusty earth, olives and woody spices, it’s wonderfully evocative of its origins. Cherry red with a silky, polished feel, it offers delicious tones of red berries, cherries, aged balsamic, woody spices and blackberries to the finish. Powerful yet refined, decant and enjoy this now with fine foods or stash it away for another decade or more.
Cheers! Giles
