Ian Botham, cricket legend, member of the House of Lords, dad and grandad, 67, chats to us about sport & more.
Q. Hello there – should I call you Lord Botham? Ian…?
“You’re quite welcome to call me Ian, Beefy, whatever you want. The world calls me Beefy.”
Q. Who was your sporting hero growing up?
“Jack Nicklaus. I love golf, I love fishing – those are my main pastimes. I was lucky enough to meet Jack on more than one occasion and I caddied a round of golf where they opened a new golf course that Jackie had signed on the Welsh borders, and I caddied with Ian Woosnam and spent a lot of the evening in the locker room with the great man. I’ve always been a great fan of what he did for golf – he took it to a new level. He’s still right up there, and no one’s caught him yet. Perfect gentlemen, lovely man.”
Q. Did you enjoy school?
“School was a great vehicle to play sport. That’s pretty much all I did. From a very young age sport was ingrained, football as well. I got my obligatory exams at the end – you’d have to be a pretty big numpty not to get some of those right. But sport was the driving force all along. Mr Hibbert at Milford Junior School in Yeovil – that’s where my prowess in sport came to the front. Played football professionally, cricket, obviously, AFL in Australia, I love it. I spent about four to five months of the year in Australia – it’s part of life in Australia. I love rugby union, rugby league… there’s pretty much no sport I don’t like. Not quite sure about equestrian but we’ll move on, horses are a debate.
Q. Can you tells us a bit about your Sliding Doors moment in 1977 and how it led to your involvement with Bloodwise?
“I broke a bone in my foot playing against the Australians at Headingley in ’77. I went to see the club doctor who took me to the physio department through the children’s ward. I remember seeing children who were ill, whether tubes sticking out of them or legs raised in plaster. There were four lads round a table playing Monopoly and I asked the doc are these guys visitors? He said no they’re seriously ill; they’ve got leukaemia. I said what’s that?! I didn’t have a clue in 1977. And he said it’s cancer of the blood and there’s every chance these four won’t be around by the time you’ve finished your eight weeks of treatment for a broken bone. That’s how it started,; it grew into a family charity, my wife Kath & daughter Sarah kept it going.
We raised millions upon millions. We’re always doing golf days and whatever. I’ve heard numbers from 30 to 100 million. What drove us what when we first did the walk in 1985/6 there was a 20% chance of survival for children with the most common form of leukaemia. Before Covid it was announced that figure was 95%. So in a short period of time we’ve gone from 20 to 95 which is a miracle in many ways, and we built this lab outside Glasgow that’s expanded, and they’re the ones who should have the pats on the back because they work in the labs and come up with the remedies. At the end of the day I’ve paid for it – I had to have my spine redone, I had both of my hips removed and fully replaced, and seven months ago I had an open knee replacement… Bionic!”
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Cycling is environmentally friendly, good exercise, offers the chance to enjoy the countryside and doesn’t have to be expensive – so what are you waiting for – get on your bike and pedal!
From penny farthings to electric bikes, cycling has always been a popular pastime – good for you and good for the environment – so there can be no better time to get out on your bike than during Bike Week this month.
June 5th to 11th marks the 100th annual Bike Week celebrating a century of everyday cycling for everyone. The health and green benefits are well known. This year to further peddle those, Bike Week 100 is all about workplace cycling – whether that’s organising an event or simply cycling rather than driving to work.
Guildford based Cycling UK, the organisation behind Bike Week, has set a series of challenges at Bike Week 100 Challenges | Cycling UK – burn 100 calories by bike, save £100 by bike and cover 100 miles by bike. The choice is yours, but of course having some stunning scenery in which to cycle is always a bonus, fortunately in our part of the world we are spoilt for choice!
Follow in the footsteps or tyre tracks of Olympic cyclists and take to Box Hill, the scenic route through the Surrey Hills is a mixture of A and B roads and country tracks.
Picturesque Chinthurst Hill in Guildford is perfect for family outings, hop aboard your bikes and drink in the beauty of the woodland complete with its quirky folly. Why not stop off on the way and make a day of it?
The Green Flag award-winning site of Frensham Ponds has a cycling spot which is perfect for shorter outings so provides the ideal family jaunt into the countryside. Nearby Farnham Park is another spot suitable for families to take to their bikes and enjoy a trip in nature.
In the same part of the world, Alice Holt Forest is a wonderful opportunity for natural cycling. Travel through ancient mighty oaks as well as wildflower rich open spaces during your cycle. Trails are open to enjoy with your own bikes or they can be hired here. The three-mile-long Family Cycling Trail starts with the opportunity to enjoy some fabulous freewheeling on the downhill section.
Take in a medieval castle on your route as you cycle the loop around Guildford Castle and Chantry Wood. The 6.8km trail is well kept and while popular still offers the chance for some peace and quiet.
Chobham Place Woods, Blackwater Park and Virginia Water lake should also go on your cycling ‘must do’ list. Here you’ll be able to spot ancient monuments and a stunning ornamental cascade waterfall as well as a 100 foot totem pole, with 10 mystical totem characters.
Neighbouring Hampshire invites you to try Abbotstone Down, Alresford where the route will take you through rolling chalk hills and bluebell woods or how about making tracks through Chawton Park Wood to Bentworth village on the 10-mile trail easily accessible from Alton or Four Marks. Enjoy more of a challenge from Alice Holt Forest along bridleways and roads through Bordon to Oakhanger and for hardened cyclists there’s one of the hardest trails in the county to the north of Petersfield where you can embark on some challenging climbs through rewarding scenery – not for the faint-hearted.
Serious cyclists may want to put their foot on the pedal and take on the challenge of the Surrey Tour on September 30th at Cranleigh Showground. The short route (!) is a mere 88km with longer options of 120 and 160 on the table too. Whichever you choose you’ll cycle through amazing countryside and in addition to a medal at the end there’ll be a much-needed beer and how about a slice of well-deserved pizza to refuel afterwards.
Bikes, like anything else you treasure, require some TLC from time to time and that’s where organisations such as Bike Project Surrey come in. The charity which has a workshop at Guildford College and a second at Brooklands College will teach you how to look after and service your bike and gain skills necessary for its maintenance. Paid and volunteer mechanics will help you make the most of your bike to prolong its life and help protect the environment. They will service, fix and customise your bike using recycled or new parts where necessary to help keep it on the road or track.
One of the things that makes Bike Project Surrey so great is that not only will they help get your bike shipshape they are also giving opportunities to those who may have missed out on learning in the past. Many students go to them for work experience, as can NEETs who will have the chance to gain a recognised qualification.
If you’re after a new bike, they have refurbished ones for sale and if you’ve an unwanted one or one children have outgrown then why not donate it? To find out more about their work and how you can get involved visit bikeprojectsurrey.org/wp/
Cycling is not just about two wheels, Wheels for All offers all ability cycling through its fleet of adapted bikes, trikes, quads, recumbents and side by side helping to make cycling an all-inclusive activity. It embraces disabled people and those who may not otherwise be able to enjoy the fun and freedom of cycling. Wheels for All Woking sessions are based at the athletics track at Woking Sportsbox. To find out more and to get in touch go to wheelsforall.org.uk/locations/woking-wheels-for-all
Oxfordshire
Enjoy some of the finest history Oxfordshire has to offer on a ride from the city of Oxford to Blenheim Palace. The family friendly ride follows the National Cycle Route 5 through residential neighbourhoods as it heads out towards Woodstock on its journey of around eight miles.
If mountain biking is your thing then at just under seven kilometres, the trail at Bagley Wood near Abingdon is ideal for beginners and the family, taking around two hours.
Mystery lovers should hop on their bikes and follow the Agatha Christie cycling route which takes in Wallingford, Goring and Streatley and Cholsey on the 17 mile loop. Once you’ve developed a taste for cycling in this area how about trying a ride through Goring Gap along quiet lanes and with stunning views.
Fancy seeing some art on your bike ride from Upton to Didcot? In addition to some lovely countryside there are interesting art benches (perfect for a breather) along the three to four mile route. Join the art trail from Upton and follow the signs for Didcot down towards the train station and into town for a refreshment stop.
Serious cyclists may like to take part in Bike Oxford on June 25th, choose from three routes of 75, 50 and 26 miles all winding through the best scenery Oxford has to offer. This popular event raises funds for Maggie’s Oxford Cancer Care centre. To take part visit bikeoxford.co.uk
Bikes, like anything else you treasure, require some TLC from time to time and that’s where organisations such as Broken Spoke Bike Co-op in Oxford and Windrush Bike Project in West Oxfordshire come in.
The Broken Spoke is run by people who are passionate about cycling and aim to make people more proficient in cycle maintenance and riding. They offer a range of DIY workshops, mechanics courses, cycle training, Beryl’s night – a free monthly evening session for women and all trans and non-binary people – as well as repairs and sales. It depends on its volunteers and more help is always needed, to find out more and offer your services visit bsbcoop.org
In West Oxfordshire, the staff and volunteers at the Windrush Bike Project help people to make journeys by bike and learn about the mechanics of bikes. A community workshop teaches vulnerable children and adults to fix donated bikes through courses. They also deliver Bikeability cycle training in schools across the area, campaign for safe cycling routes and provide information about riding in and around West Oxfordshire.
Berkshire
The Kennet & Avon Canal is great for more adventurous family biking expeditions and all the locks en route provide the perfect start / stop points and with the trainline running alongside too you can do some great A-B bike rides starting at a railway station and returning by train if it all becomes too much or the Great British weather intervenes! Take in the picturesque canal through Newbury, Thatcham, Hungerford and Pewsey.
The Nature Discovery Centre, near Thatcham has a lovely bike ride loop around the lake, perfect for kids and with a café and two playgrounds it’s a fabulous day out.
Don’t be surprised if you suddenly encounter ponies grazing as you ride through Snelsmore Common. They’re a familiar sight around the routes to Donnington Castle if you venture far enough.
The Ridgeway is a journey through time taking in part of our heritage, experience wide open views and explore ancient treasures such as Neolithic long barrows and Bronze Age round barrows. At more than 80 miles long the Ridgeway is a route that will test your fitness levels. Mountain bikers can complete the stretch from Avebury to Goring in around two days.
For off-road cycling and 24km of trails suitable for all abilities, visit Swinley Forest which offers a choice of three trails – green, blue and red. Green is the perfect introduction to off road cycling, ideal for families and beginners. The blue trail offers a flowing loop suitable for intermediate and mountain bikers while the red advanced trail has challenges those with off-road skills will appreciate.
Dinton Pastures, near Wokingham is one of the most attractive spots locally and offers several different tracks around the lakes including the 1.8 mile Black Swan Lake loop where you can spot interesting ducks and swans along the way. The path is flat so ideal for kids but does have some bumpy sections where the path has been resurfaced with rough gravel.
Black Park Country Park has “family” written all over it with options for kids of all ages. In addition to the circular path around the lake, there’s a great route with an adventure play park halfway. It’s just under a mile so ideal for little legs. Bigger kids looking to exert themselves can take on the 10 miles of cycling and walking tracks around. Take your own bikes or hire them from Go Ape next to the car park.
The Thames Path stretch from Goring to Pangbourne is public bridleway so saddle up and ride. Enjoy some glorious country back lanes to Tilehurst Station (via Mapledurham) – it’s around nine miles and from there a train can zip you and your bikes back to Goring in about eight minutes.
Bikes, like anything else you treasure, require some TLC from time to time and that’s where organisations such as Reading Bike Kitchen come in. Got a bike that’s been sitting in the garage with spokes covered in cobwebs or just need some advice and access to tools to get your beloved bike shipshape again? This is the place for you. Take your trusty steed along and either make use of the space and tools at the Small Business Centre in Weldale Street or just ask one of the volunteers who will be more than happy to help and get you back in the saddle. Reading Bike Kitchen also welcomes donations of bikes in reasonable condition to pass on to a new owner. Visit readingbicyclekitchen.org to find out more.
Windsor Cycle Hub is a community initiative organisation set up to promote cycling for all in the community which as well as encouraging residents and visitors to get on their bikes, recycles affordable bikes, teaches mechanical skills, sharing knowledge and resources and running events and rides. Operating from The Swan in Clewer, the bike kitchen will carry out safety checks, maintenance, repairs and offer advice. Most weekends there’s a ride you can join in with too – operating on four different levels they’re a wonderful way to enjoy cycling in the company of others. Find all dates, advice and more at windsorcyclehub.org
Wiltshire
Wiltshire has some gorgeous scenery to navigate and explore so how about going slightly further afield and starting in Salisbury – worth it for the cathedral alone. Cycle via an old drover’s road up to remote Normanton Down where Stonehenge will be on the horizon. Cyclists in the know prefer the village of Avebury, whose ancient stone circle is more accessible and more fun to visit. The circular 160-mile Wiltshire Cycleway showcases the county, right up to historic Malmesbury in the Cotswolds.
Experienced cyclists will want to tackle William’s Big Wheel on Saturday, 10th June. Run by West Berkshire Spokes, it starts from West Mills, Newbury RG14 5BQ and takes you through Marlborough, Ramsbury and Lambourn. This is a limited numbers ride but if seeing them whizz past whets your appetite for ‘serious’ cycling then the group runs two rides a month, find out more at www.westberkshirespokes.org
You might still be in time to sign up for the Hydra Ride on June 25th. The sportive-style road cycle ride, starts from Wood Street, in the heart of Swindon Old Town, a choice of three routes all go south-east along rolling roads winding through stunning countryside taking in Lambourn, Ramsbury and Aldbourne on the way. The Hydra 5, 7, and 9 offer a challenge for riders of all abilities with rewarding climbs and swift descents. And if the cycling’s not for you make sure you look out for them pedalling through the towns and villages. Full routes at thehydraride.co.uk
Buckinghamshire
Follow the Phoenix Trail from Princes Risborough to Thame and enjoy the perfect family trail. Not only is it flat and safe, but there’s no traffic to contend with along the 7.5 mile path which largely follows the path of a disused railway line, dotted with 30 sculptures acknowledging railway history and the Chiltern countryside.
Wendover’s Juniper Cycle Trail takes you along six miles of well-surfaced trails with climbs and descents. Suitable for intermediate riders and mountain bikers with basic off-road skills, some parts are steep but the trail is well-surfaced.
Take in the sights of Jubilee Weir and Windsor (including Eton) on an enjoyable 11.5 mile route from Windsor Bridge Loop to Taplow that includes five+ miles of fabulous cycleways.
Explore Little Marlow, Bourne End, Cookham Bridge, Cookham Dean and the Marlow Suspension Bridge on an easy circular route of just over 10 miles, finishing back in town for a well-earned refreshment reward.
Longer routes well worth a pedal in the area include taking in the Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre and Butt’s Way with a cycling round trip which takes in Princes Risborough. You can cycle in the landscape of Pavis Wood and enjoy Chesham, Amersham and Great Missenden and how about exploring the Royal Standard of England taking in Beaconsfield en route? For full details of these and more rides, please visit routeyou.com/en-gb/location/routes/47411801/buckinghamshire?route-type=1
Organised by Wheelpower, the Tour de Vale Charity Bike Ride on Sunday, 11th June, is Buckinghamshire’s largest charity cycling event which starts and finishes at Stoke Mandeville Stadium with a chance to enjoy the beautiful countryside. Cyclists can enjoy full support en route while the finish yields a massage, barbecue and bar to recover and relax. This fabulous event raises funds for the Stoke Mandeville charity which provides opportunities for disabled people to lead healthy, active lives. Full details and to enter, visit wheelpower.org.uk/tourdevale23
Rose Awareness Week celebrates the beauty and variety of the world’s most popular flower. This is the ideal time to enjoy their glory with beautiful blooms and sensuous scents in gardens near you
Shakespeare said “of all the flowers, me thinks a rose is best” and who can argue with the great English playwright. Roses are rooted in many aspects of life, from literature to history, but did you know:
• The oldest living rose is 1,000 years old, and lives on the wall of the Cathedral of Hildesheim in Germany. • All varieties of rose are edible. Rose petals are often added to jellies and used as a flavouring in Chinese and Indian cuisine. Teas or cocktails are often infused with rose hips, a berry shaped fruit grown from roses packed with Vitamin C. • There are around 150 species of roses across the world, with thousands of hybrids too! Cherries, apples, peaches, plums, pears, apricots and almonds are all relatives of the rose family. • The most expensive rose is the Juliet Rose. It took 15 years and cost £2.3 million. Its colour resembles an apricot and it was first displayed in 2006 at Chelsea Flower Show.
One of summer’s great pleasures is to stroll through a rose garden, breathe in the sweet fragrance and gaze at the pastel colours of the blooms. Whether in a formal rose garden or throughout the grounds, these ones are well worth a visit.
Hampshire
More than 100 rose varieties bloom each summer at Hinton Ampner, Alresford, and the borders are designed so the most fragrant roses are planted close to the path you walk along. Take the rose trail that guides you to the different varieties planted by a former owner, and Hinton’s garden team.
Step into the garden at Mottisfont and be met with unsurpassed fragrance and colour from over 500 varieties of world-famous roses blooming in the walled garden.
Surrey
The rose garden at Nymans is teaming with delicate blooms and densely-petalled clusters. Make the most of the long summer evenings and experience the roses in a whole new light every Friday in June and July with summer lates at Nymans.
Take in the glorious views across the rolling Surrey Hills from Polesden Lacey near Dorking, framed by Edwardian rambling roses, shrub roses adorning the borders and climbing roses decorating the pergolas.
Started in 2007, the Bowes-Lyon Rose Garden at RHS Wisley aims to inspire visitors with roses planted alongside companion plants.
The two summer beds at the Six Quarters at Gilbert White’s House, Selborne, are home to various species of old roses, all of which look their best this month, nestled among lavender, geraniums, columbines and foxgloves.
Planted with over 1,000 Old English rose bushes and framed by long, low, precisely clipped box hedges, the Rose Garden at Loseley Park, Guildford, is one of the finest examples in the country. Many visit just for the colour and scent of the roses, evoking summer at its best.
Oxfordshire
The three-day flower show this month, 23rd to 25th, at Blenheim Palace is the ideal time to enjoy the roses at their best in the sumptuous surroundings of the stately splendour in Woodstock. Take a stroll down Floral Street, tour the Grand Floral Pavilion, join the newly-created Insect Trail and generally wallow in all that showcases the best of British gardening.
The Mary Rose Garden at Waterperry Gardens near Wheatley is home to hybrid teas, floribunda, climbers and ground cover roses – a rose lover’s paradise. Visitors in June will find among the many varieties grown there are some which only flower once a year, amid many repeat flowerers.
As part of the National Garden Scheme, The Old Rectory, Farnborough, near Wantage OX12 8NX will be open on June 28th and August 9th. Visitors can admire the collection of old roses and abundantly planted borders while enjoying beautiful views and rare plants and wild flowers.
Wiltshire
There are around 2,000 roses throughout the garden at Abbey House Manor Gardens, Malmesbury, with climbers wandering their way through foxgloves and other flowers. Once part of a Benedictine Monastery, the gardens only open on selected dates during the summer months.
Berkshire
The rose arbor provides seating in an avenue of white and mauve alliums and white camtasisa at Rockwood Garden, Newbury where you can enjoy a tour with tea lead by the owners.
The 12 acre garden at Englefield House, Theale, descends from the hill above the historic house through woodland featuring mature native trees. Stone balustrades enclose the lower terrace with lawns, roses and mixed borders.
Greys Court near Henley is full of wonderful sights and scents as the roses come into bloom throughout June. The rose garden traces the history of the rose from the early damask varieties to the modern hybrid perennials.
Through June, August and September, the Rose Garden at Basildon Park is planted with old roses, replicating Lady Iliffe’s original design. Look out for two of the gardeners’ favourite roses: Rosa mundi and Rosa ‘Compte de Chambord’, which is also known as ‘Madame Boll’ or ‘Madame Knorr’.
Take in the scent of the contemporary rose garden at Savill Garden, Windsor, with its viewing platform overlooking the roses and the garden beyond and wander beside borders planted with old fashioned scented French musk roses.
Celebrate all things floral at the Royal Windsor Flower Show on Saturday, 10th June. Led by the show’s Honorary President, Alan Titchmarsh who will welcome a host of special guests and performances, with plant growers, garden designers, artisan producers and top-notch chefs on hand to demonstrate and share their knowledge.
Buckinghamshire
Cliveden’s rose garden features over 900 repeat flowering roses in shades of red, orange and yellow. Reinstated in 2014 based on a 1950s design by Sir Geoffrey Jellicoe, you can enjoy them in bloom from late May until September.
Visitors to Waddesdon this month will be able to enjoy the sweet scent of the rose garden as the colourful blooms fill the stately setting. The beds in the Aviary and Parterre are awash with colour influenced by Victorian-inspired planting.
In addition to the stately splendour of Cliveden and Waddesdon, several gardens are opening as part of the National Garden Scheme this month. Overstroud Cottage Garden in The Dell, Frith Hill, Great Missenden, HP16 9QE, is opening its gates on Sunday, 4th June for visitors to admire the rambling roses and their ‘lookalike’ peonies among others. With a plant stall too you may even be able to pick up some specimens for your garden!
Maidenhead Open Gardens will feature about 20 gardens on June 24th and 25th with gardens large and small on display showcasing their blooms. Meet the keen gardeners and pick up some tips as you discover more about the hidden gems in the area. Earlier in the month, on 11th, visit the garden at St Timothee, Darlings Lane, Pinkneys Green, SL6 6PA and take in the sights and scents of the two-acre garden at this 1930s house where, in addition to the rose terrace, a box parterrre, ornamental grasses and wildlife pond add to the delight.
With the weather getting warmer there can be nothing better than dining al fresco so try these recipes from Traeger, makers of world-leading premium wood pellet BBQs
Grilled Lobster Tails
Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 25 mins | Serves: 2
This is wood-fired flavour, from the sea to your backyard. Simply cut a slit to butterfly the lobster tails, pour the butter mixture, then let our signature heat and smoke do the rest.
1. Prepare the lobster by cutting down the middle of the tough shell toward the tail with kitchen shears.
2. Using your fingers, gently pry the meat from the shell, keeping it attached at the base of the tail. Lift the meat so it is resting on top of the split shell (again, keeping it attached at the base of the tail).
3. Make a slit down the middle of the meat to butterfly it open on top.
4. Place the lobster tails on a rimmed baking sheet.
5. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in the lemon juice, paprika, garlic salt, Traeger Fin & Feature Rub, pepper and parsley.
6. Pour about 1 tablespoon of the butter mixture over each lobster tail. Keep the remaining butter mixture warm.
7. When ready to cook, set Traeger temperature to 260°C and preheat, lid closed for 15 minutes.
8. Remove the lobster tails from the baking sheet and arrange them directly on the grill grate. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the meat is white and opaque.
9. Transfer lobster tails to a platter and serve with the reserved butter mixture. Enjoy!
Roasted Sheet Pan Salmon with Spring Veg and Pesto
Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 12 mins | Serves: 4
The beauty of this recipe is that it all cooks together in 10-12 minutes! Salmon is such a crowd-pleaser on the grill and is a perfect match for these spring vegetables with pesto. But how often do we focus on crispy salmon skin? This recipe cooks the salmon with the skin side up for a beautiful presentation for those who love the skin. And if you don’t care for it? No worries! Cook it skin-side down and it will still be beautiful.
Ingredients:
• 4 Salmon pieces (100g), skin on, pin bones removed • 3 tablespoons olive oil • Rock salt and freshly ground black pepper • 16 fresh asparagus spears, sliced into 2.5cm pieces • 180g cherry tomatoes, rinsed and halved • 300g sugar snap peas • 1 1/2 lemons halved • 85g fresh pesto • 2/3 lemon, zested • Fresh basil leaves for garnish
Steps:
1. When ready to cook, set the temperature to high and preheat, lid closed for 15 minutes.
2. Rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towel. Brush all sides of the salmon with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and sprinkle generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper on all sides. Place the salmon pieces skin-side up on the sheet tray (or down if preferred) leaving 2 inches between each piece.
3. Place the asparagus, sugar snap peas and cherry tomatoes in a bowl. Gently mix the vegetables with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a fresh grinding of pepper. Scatter the vegetables evenly onto the sheet pan.
4. Place the sheet pan on the grill. In addition, place the lemons cut-side down directly on the grill grate towards the front of the grill. Close the lid and cook for 5 minutes at 80°C.
5. After 5 minutes, remove the lemons from the grill and stir the vegetables. Close the lid and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the fish reaches an internal temperature of 60°C and can be flaked with a fork.
6. Remove the sheet pan from the grill. Place the fish and vegetables on a serving platter and drizzle with the pesto. Sprinkle the lemon zest over the top of the fish and vegetables and add a few basil leaves for garnish. Serve immediately. Enjoy!
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Our wine columnist Giles Luckett explores the best wines from South Africa worth trying
Hello. This article was inspired by a recent South African wine tasting, one that turned out to be a simultaneous trip down memory lane and a voyage of discovery (if that doesn’t win Mixed Metaphor of the Year, nothing will!).
This vast county has 30 diverse wine districts and 60 Wine of Origin (WO) designations, boasts a mix of microclimates and soils to enable it to grow pretty much every grape variety brilliantly. They’ve also been making wine since the 1650s, so they have had plenty of time to perfect their art.
I became a fan of South African wines in my student days, as they offered affordability and drinkability in equal measure. Three decades in the wine trade has burnished my love of the country’s wines and allowed me to try everything from mighty Cabernet Sauvignons that aren’t so much dry as desiccated to that well-known heart condition treatment (well, well-known to Jane Austen) the luscious Klein Constantia. Such long experience meant I attended the tasting expecting great wines but no surprises. What I encountered came as something of a shock…
Alongside the usual cavalcade of world-class Cabernet Sauvignons (the Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2017 (Wine Society £16) was in marvellous form, so full, so refined, and typical of this wonderful vintage), cool climate Chardonnays (Journeys End Winemakers Chardonnay) (Laithwaites £14.99), and native grape classics such as the Beaumont Family Pinotage, Bot River, Walker Bay 2018 Pinotage (the Wine Society £18) was a line-up of newbies the like of which I didn’t know existed. Luscious, fruit-bomb Viogniers like the Mount Rozier Estate Queen Bee Viognier 2022 (Laithwaites £12.99), a previously unseen Tempranillo, from Mellasat Vineyards (Brompton Wines £20.9%) which took this Riojan classic and gave it even more oomph and even an orange wine. Well, no one’s perfect.
(Another) South African Wine Revolution
I’d read that South African wine had undergone one of its periodic reinventions in the past few years, but I didn’t appreciate how significant this one was. On the evidence of this extensive tasting, this is as significant a change as they moved away from making South Africian ‘port’ and ‘sherry’ and moved into table wines.
What is the revolution this time? Well, in essence, it’s about working with nature. It’s about aligning the right grapes, exploration of sites, and using the right grapes and the right production methods to give wines that are authentic, and which convey a ‘taste of place.’ The rationale behind this move varies hugely, but what is universal is the exceptional quality of the wines being produced, as the following highlights show.
Boschendale Chenin (Tesco £9) is about as traditional as South African wine gets. Chenin, or Steen as it’s known here, is planted all over the country as it used to be used for fortified wines. These days it’s mainly used to produce crisp, apple, and melon flavoured wines, the best of which, such as Boschendale’s, have a shot of citrus, honey, and minerals giving them complexity.
South African Sauvignon Blanc isn’t a wine I’m that familiar with. Like many of my generation, I was introduced to Sauvignon by the thrillingly fruit-driven gooseberry and green pepper wines of New Zealand in the late 1980s. After a year or so of drinking this style, the thrill wore off, and I’ve avoided New World Sauvignon ever since. It seems I’ve been missing out, however, as when I tasted the Journey’s End Identity Sauvignon (£9 Sainsbury’s), I found a wine of subtlety and class. The notes of gooseberries, rhubarb, and peppers are still there, but the volume’s been turned down, and peachy, yellow plum notes have fleshed it out, making for a jolly, food-friendly glassful.
Kleine Zalze is another South African winery whose wines I’ve always enjoyed. Hailing from the prestigious Stellenbosch region, their Vineyard Selection Chenin (Vinum £13.10) is a serious, grown-up wine. Oak-aged, there’s a creaminess to this wine that compliments the rich peach, guava, and apricot tones before a fresh, firm acidity pulls everything together. This would be brilliant with lemon roast chicken or mushroom risotto.
Spier is one of South Africa’s oldest wineries, and yet they produce one of its newest and rarest wines. Albarino is a grape most commonly associated with Spain, where it produces some of the country’s greatest whites. Ranging in style from the dry and crisp to the very dry and very crisp, it’s a wine I’ve always liked. The Spier Albarino (Majestic £9.99) has all the citrus you’d expect, but with its full, glycerine-rich body, it has softer, fatter notes of baked apple and pear that make it eminently drinkable.
I’ll leave the whites with Jordan Wines’ The Real McCoy Riesling 2022. Like Pinot Noir, Riesling seems to be a grape that every nation wants to do well. The quality of the grape is such that everyone wants to create ones that can rival the French and German versions. Jordan has done pretty good job, if you ask me. While this is very much a South African wine, the lovely floral, apple and honey nose, taut, crisp, green and white berry saturated palate and cleansing, mineral-laden acidity make for a compelling Riesling. I plan to try this with a stir fry, but as a solo sipper, it’s a pearl.
Pinotage is South Africa’s signature grape. Created in 1925 by crossing the noble Pinot Noir and commoner Cinsault (at the time, the Pinot wasn’t so much cross as flaming furious), the idea was to give a noble vine with good heat resistance. It’s a vine capable of great things in the right hands (and utterly forgettable dross in the wrong hands), as the Spier Pinotage shows. Mid-red, the nose is an inviting mix of crushed red berries, warm spices, cherries, and earth. These impressions flow onto the palate where the amble, yet rounded, tannins give it structure, and a hint of mint adds freshness. A great BBQ wine, should the sun ever shine.
Blends have always worked well in South Africa. Some of my earliest memories of South African wine are of tasting the likes of Simonsig and Meerlust’s mighty Rubicon. Having such a wealth of grapes to call upon, it’s easy to see why they are popular. One I caught up with at the tasting was Kanonkop’s Kadette (Tesco £12), the entry-level wine from the superb Kanonkop estate. Blending Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, this is an inky dark, brooding, spicy, and super-ripe wine that doesn’t so much caress your palate as give it a cuddle and offer it a blanket. If you like big, rich, spicy, and intense wines, this is a great choice.
Syrah, one of the great grapes of the Rhone Valley, is another variety you rarely see adorning South African wine labels. So when I saw the Griffin Syrah (£20 Ocado), I was intrigued. I tasted the 2016, and the bottle aging had clearly helped it. Young Syrah can be a handful, closed, tannic, brooding, and acidic. This was deep, mellow, and open. It offered a huge weight of plum, black cherry, and bramble fruit alongside signature notes of herbs, white pepper, and raspberries. Drinking well now, it has time on its side and would be fantastic with roasted red meats or hard cheeses.
I couldn’t write a piece on South African wine and not mention a Cabernet Sauvignon. This noblest of vines seems to like South Africa and consistently produces world-class wines that are as good as they are affordable. I reviewed the Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 by Ernie Els Wines last year, and it was outstanding. This time out, I looked at the 2017, which, if anything, was even better. Very dark with only a glimmer of crimson at the rim, the nose offered an intensely concentrated mix of cassis, green peppers, mint, cherries, and smoke. In the mouth, it was powerful yet elegant. Fresh blackcurrants take centre stage, but there’s excellent support from black cherries, chocolate, spicy vanilla, and a shot of cranberry acidity. A delicious wine, I’d give it plenty of time open before drinking.
I’ll finish this piece as I finished the tasting with a fizz. I’ve tasted the Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé (Majestic £16.99) around a dozen times in the past year, and my notes have been consistent in their praise. While I love all of Beck’s sparkling wines, the Pinot Noir Rosé is on a different level. Sweetly toned strawberries and raspberries mingle with softer flavours of brioche, black fig, creamy yeast, and a hint of saline. This will undoubtedly be our summer fizz, and with its weight and freshness, it will partner all kinds of food admirably well.
I hope this whistle-stop tour will prompt you to explore South Africa’s great wine treasury. Next time out, I’m heading back down under for some splendid summer sippers.
Book your tickets to buy second hand treasures by the kilo at a pop-up store in Leiden Square on Friday 19th, Saturday 20th & Sunday 21st May.
Westgate Oxford will welcome fast-growing sustainable fashion business ‘we are.’ on Leiden Square over Friday 19th, Saturday 20th, and Sunday 21st May.
The pop-up store will sell high-quality secondhand clothing, including womenswear and menswear from well-loved brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Nike, alongside authentic vintage items.
The clothing rails will be refreshed at regular intervals throughout each day, ensuring all visitors get a chance to find some hidden gems regardless of their time of entry. Guests will be able to purchase as much or as little as they like, with the total cost dependent on the weight of the garments. Prices will start from £5, with a full kilo costing £25.
Brendan Hattam, Westgate centre, said: “With sustainability at the forefront of everyone’s minds, we know that our guests are looking for more climate-conscious ways to shop. That’s why we’re partnering with ‘we are.’ to bring pre-loved fashion to Westgate Oxford in response to the growing popularity of shopping second-hand, while brining our guests a new mix of premium and vintage brands at accessible prices.”
Matthew Griffiths, founder of ‘we are.’ added: “We are thrilled to be launching our kilo sale style pop-up store at Westgate Oxford for the first time, bringing our sustainable shopping experience back to Oxford after a successful pop-up in Oxford Town Hall last year. Millions of perfectly wearable clothes are thrown out each year and we are here to prove that sustainable fashion can help you stay on-trend as well as help save the planet.”
The Didcot-based charity is back with its popular football tournament at Wallingford Sports Park and needs your team
Do you live, sleep and breathe the beautiful game? Would you love to have a kick about while raising money for charity?
The popular Play2Give football tournament is back this summer at Wallingford Sports Park on Sunday, 9th July, for six-a-side teams to raise money for children, health, and disability causes right here on our doorstep.
Oxford Children’s Hospital, Headway Oxfordshire, SSNAP and Helen and Douglas House are the charities expected to receive a slice of funds from what is set to be a brilliant match of the day.
The event which kickstarted the charity in 2007 will return for its 12th year, with 2022 champions, ADT Decorating, keen to retain the cup for another victorious year.
Last year’s event which returned to Oxfordshire after a five-year break saw 16 teams compete for The P2G Paediatric Eye Fund sponsored cup, with squads including boxers, army squadrons, barbers, teams of friends, office workers, and even bereaved dads and a team of Didcot dads and the P2G Heroes FC.
Our football tournaments over the years have netted in the region of £42,000 for local causes, including young hospital patients and adults living with brain injuries.
Pitch side fun for children, a bar and hot food, stalls, charity raffle and music will all help to make this a great family day out.
Entries cost £60 per team and registration ends on June 29th.
Consultant who loves planning honeymoons scoops Guide for Brides honour
A travel consultant from Oxfordshire who specialises in honeymoons and weddings has scooped a prestigious industry award for the second year running.
Rachel Tredwell, a Not Just Travel consultant, won a Customer Service Award from Guides For Brides, which recognises the best wedding suppliers in the UK and overseas. Rachel was also a finalist at TTG’s Luxury Travel Awards, in the New Luxury Designer of the Year 2023 category.
After training to become a Not Just Travel consultant, Rachel set up her business Tredwell Travel and gained a reputation for creating dream holidays, particularly for those tying the knot and looking for a honeymoon to remember. Known for her magic touch, Rachel’s meticulous attention to detail has even earned her the nickname ‘the travel fairy godmother’.
Speaking about her awards success, Rachel said: “I love what I do, creating dream holidays is my passion and I’m thrilled to have this recognised by Guides for Brides. Travel is all about the experience, from the moment you leave the house to your safe return. I offer my clients a 360 degree service, so that each trip, whether it’s a wedding, honeymoon or bucket list holiday, is as special as it can be.”
Rachel’s dedication to planning memorable trips means that she’s now on course to sell £2 million worth of holidays this year, with over 65 per cent of her booking being honeymoons and weddings.
The fact that Rachel only decided to become a travel consultant in 2019 makes her phenomenal success all the more remarkable. Rachel left her job as a paediatric nurse and trained with The Travel Franchise to become a Not Just Travel Consultant in late 2019. Despite the pandemic meaning her clients and flights were grounded, Rachel managed to keep in touch with her clients and keep her business afloat.
“It was tough but I concentrated on building customers and a niche,” said Rachel, whose determination to provide the ultimate in customer service has seen her win many fans.
With the last year being one of the busiest periods for wedding in a long time, Rachel’s business is booming and thanks to her tenacity and care for her customers – her services are more in demand than ever:
“I’ve recently organised several special trips to some incredible destinations including the Maldives, Sri Lanka, Mauritius and Japan. For some couples planning a honeymoon can be a bit overwhelming, with so many different destinations on offer. I take the stress out of this and guide my clients through the process, getting to know them and ultimately creating a trip that really suits them as a couple. All my clients benefit from the added reassurance that I’m always there for them, just a message or phone call away to help with every last detail.”
And it’s not just the excellent customer service Rachel’s clients love, they also get an incredible deal too. Booking with Rachel at Tredwell Travel doesn’t cost her clients anything extra, Rachel can often offer them fantastic savings as she has access to a whole host of exclusive offers from Not Just Travel’s 40-plus key trade partners.
To book your dream holiday with Rachel visit Tredwell Travel.
A useful guide to renovating your dream countryside home
The Dream
You can’t help but feel a sense of peace and contentment when you take in the beauty of the countryside. Here, amidst its rolling hills and lush green fields, you know you’re exactly what you’re meant to be; home.
Your imagination runs wild; you can just picture it – a cosy cottage surrounded by mighty oak, a rambling garden filled with vibrant wildflowers and a charming organic vegetable patch. You’ll wake up to the soothing melody of birdsong before stepping outside, coffee in hand, to take in the serene calm of the countryside. In the summer, you’ll bask in the warm sun and gaze upon the tranquil water of the pond, marvelling at the beauty of the dancing dragonflies. When winter arrives, you’ll press your steaming cup of tea against your rosy, frost-kissed cheeks.
As your thoughts return to the present, you may feel a sense of doubt creeping in as you face the sheer magnitude of work required to create the home of your dreams. Taking on a renovation project while balancing work and family life may seem overwhelming, and the “what-ifs” take centre stage. But worry not; with the following advice and a good deal of preparation, you can turn your vision into a reality.
Finding the right property
To begin, first consider whether you wish to take on a new property or if you could instead rejuvenate your home. With a little imagination, your existing property may make for the perfect canvas to actualise your dreams.
If you decide a new property is in order, start by researching different homes available in the area. You can explore online listings, connect with local real estate agents, and attend open house auctions. Take the time to research each property thoroughly and create a list of those that stand out to you. Once you’ve narrowed your list, it’s time to visit each property in person. Spend some time wandering around the area, taking note of the surroundings and the feel of the community. You can also speak with locals to learn more about the area, which may help you to identify any challenges you may encounter during your renovation process.
When considering your budget, keep in mind your renovation goals and financial situation. You want to be realistic about what you can afford, but don’t let this discourage you from envisioning your dream home. With careful budget planning, some creativity, and a willingness to be flexible, you’ll be able to create a home that meets all your needs.
While viewing homes, it’s easy to get wrapped up in the excitement and overlook potential faults or niggles with the property. To prevent this, in addition to eliciting the help of a structural surveyor, it would be prudent to bring along a qualified builder to assess the property’s condition and provide a realistic estimate of the cost of any refurbishment work required. This will enable you to set a 10-20% contingency plan for the works and ensure you don’t underestimate the costs involved in making the property habitable. It’s worth noting that you can often negotiate remedial work off the sale price, further reducing your overall costs.
The logistics of searching for a property can be difficult to navigate, particularly if you’re simultaneously selling and buying. If during the home renovation process, you decide to rent or stay with family while searching for your new home or find yourself stuck in a chain, Cinch Self Storage can securely store your belongings for you.
As you move forward with your search, be patient, persistent and optimistic. Remember, this journey may take some time, but it is worth it to find the perfect property. Stay motivated and keep your vision in mind.
Planning your reno
Once you’ve found the perfect canvas, it’s time to plan.
When envisioning your dream home, take the time to think carefully about your needs. You may wish to create two lists: one for your must-haves and one for your nice-to-haves. Draw inspiration from past living experiences to determine what works best for you, and use these insights to fuel your creativity.
You can save time by reviewing floor plans of nearby homes and researching any necessary permits. Take the time to get to know your local community and officials to establish positive relationships, which may help you to achieve your goals. Be sure to submit planning applications well in advance and seek guidance from qualified professionals who have extensive knowledge of the area and previous approvals for similar properties.
If Grand Designs has taught us anything, it’s the importance of finding reliable and trustworthy professionals. We’ve all seen it; ambitious projects are ground to a halt by faulty foundations and contractors who fail to deliver. To avoid finding yourself in the same boat, take your time with your research.
Consider working with vetted local professionals who are likely to have an intimate understanding of the unique requirements and regulations of building in the countryside, especially when it comes to renovating listed homes. Additionally, they may be able to source culturally or historically significant materials from the region, while putting funds back into your local economy.
While it may be tempting to rush the renovation, doing so may lead to unnecessary issues and burnout. By staggering your renovation, you can take the time to plan and execute each project with care and attention to detail.
Creating your blank canvas
Armed with your vision and your plan, you can now prepare your canvas.
Take stock of your belongings and consider each item, noting whether it falls into one of two categories: sentimental or practical. If you can envision yourself using or loving the item in your new home, it’s good to go, otherwise consider donating it to your local charity shop. This is a great time to reflect on what brings value to your life and whether it fits your vision.
Before packing, ensure all items are clean and dry to prevent mould growth. This is especially important if you’re storing items for an extended period. To further protect against moisture, consider using desiccators, such as silica gel bags. Of course, be careful to keep these out of reach of children and pets.
To streamline your moving process, consider keeping an inventory of items in each box by labelling them accordingly. Taking the extra time to label your boxes can help you keep track of your belongings and ensure that nothing gets lost during the move, as well as making the process of unpacking a breeze.
Protecting your belongings
Now that your belongings are packed, you’ll need to find a secure place to store them during your renovation. You may be tempted to store them in a garage or garden shed but be aware that doing so makes them susceptible to damage caused by dampness and wildlife. Critters such as mice can cause significant damage, often seeming to favour family heirlooms, and they are notorious for finding their way through the tiniest of gaps. Thankfully, this issue can be mitigated. Cinch Self Storage Bicester can protect your belongings from the elements with their clean, dry and 24/7 CCTV-monitored storage. No need to worry about pesky critters, dampness or mould.
Laying the foundation
With your blank canvas and belongings safely stored, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and begin the renovation process.
When embarking on a home renovation project, start with the structural foundation to ensure it is safe and can withstand wear and tear. You should assess the overall condition of the home’s foundation and ensure that it’s structurally sound. Be sure to remedy any issues that arise, however small, during this stage. Don’t be tempted to brush potential issues under the carpet as it may result in costly repairs later down the line, forcing you to undo your hard work.
Once the foundation is secure, it’s time to focus on the plumbing and wiring. This includes checking for leaks or damage in the plumbing system and ensuring the electrical wiring is up to code. Upgrading these systems to be more energy-efficient and sustainable can also be a great way to reduce your home’s environmental impact and lower your utility bills.
Choosing your materials
When decorating, consider using sustainable and non-toxic materials. Many commercial paints emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can be harmful to your health. Choosing eco-friendly paints that are low in VOCs can make a massive difference to the health of your home and family.
Following the instructions provided on each product, as well as by professionals, can help avoid costly mistakes and ensure the renovation is safe and successful. With careful planning and the use of sustainable materials, home renovation can be a rewarding process that enhances the overall beauty, functionality, and sustainability of your home.
During the renovation
Throughout the renovation process, stay organised and communicate with your contractor. This means keeping track of progress, deadlines, and any changes that need to be made to the original plan. Regular communication with your contractor can help ensure that the project stays on track and that any issues are addressed promptly.
Taking regular progress photos can help you to track the progress of your renovation, allowing you to see what you’ve achieved and what needs to be actioned. It may offer some protection if legal matters arise. You may even wish to frame your photographs in your new home as a pleasant reminder of your accomplishments.
Be sure to account for the many logistical challenges which can arise during the renovation process, such as running into issues with the delivery and receipt of supplies. The last thing you want is to have to rush home from work to accept delivery of your furniture, only for them to leave it outside, exposed to the elements. Cinch Self Storage are happy to accept deliveries on your behalf, helping you to plan and organise your renovation project around your existing responsibilities.
Once the renovation is complete, have your property inspected to ensure that it meets safety and building code standards. This can help identify any issues that may need to be addressed before the property can be used. If unexpected issues do arise during the final stages of the renovation, stay calm and work with your contractor to find a solution. Remember that unexpected issues can be a part of any renovation process and handling them with a positive attitude and a willingness to find a solution will ensure a successful outcome.
A little elbow grease
By this point of your renovation journey, you’re likely overly eager to jump into the exciting task of making it home, but before doing so, you’ll need to put in a little more elbow grease to ensure that your canvas is clean and safe. It’s crucial to air out your home to reduce indoor air pollution caused by dust, chemicals and paint fumes. Using a HEPA filter can help capture and remove any remaining pollutants, ensuring that your home is clean and healthy for you and your family.
As you clean, pay special attention to areas where debris tends to accumulate, such as corners and baseboards. Use a damp cloth to wipe down any hard surfaces, and don’t forget to vacuum any carpets or rugs thoroughly.
While never a pleasant task, taking the time to deep clean will ensure that your home is free of any debris or harmful particles left over from the renovation, and prevent damage to your belongings that you’ve thus far taken such great care to protect.
Making it a home
When envisioning the style of your home, first, consider the story you wish for it to tell. Do you want your home to be warm, rich and eclectic? Or perhaps light, soft and minimal? How will your home convey your history, passions and values?
Keeping this in mind will help you to look past the fashionable and instead create a home that is a timeless reflection of your personality. It will also make the process of sourcing and curating pieces all that much more enjoyable.
Whether you’re after a contemporary lampshade or an antique apothecary table, consider sourcing pieces locally. Charity shops and antique stores or markets are ideal places to look for characterful, rare and high-quality pieces.
If you’re looking for something new or contemporary, turn to your local artisans. There are bound to be highly talented upholsterers, textile artists, painters or sculptors in your area who would be all too happy to create a bespoke piece for you.
Keep in mind that the right piece will find its way to you. You may have to wait a while but it’s worth it to create a high-quality home that will stand the test of time.
Home, at last
With the renovation behind you, it’s time to collect your belongings and move home.
This may seem like a small logistical step but take pause, as this signifies a fresh start and a new chapter in your life. As you carefully unpack each box and find a place for every item, you are reminded of the dreams and determination that led you to this moment. Go slowly and be present, as this moment of reuniting with your belongings is one you’ll cherish for years to come.
Renovating? Cinch Self Storage are here to help.For more information, please visit Cinch Storage Bicester
Learn more about the wines of Rioja as Round and About’s wine columnist shares his thoughts on the best red and white Riojas on the UK market
Hello. A game I like to play sometimes is wine keywords – I’m too old for an Xbox, and I don’t drink enough port to be good at bridge. The aim of the game is to encapsulate a wine region’s history in as few words as possible and have people guess where you’re talking about. Trust me, this goes down a storm with men of a certain age with model railways and a subscription to Decanter!
So, Bordeaux could be, ‘British-owned. British invented. British drunk while Champagne could be ‘Monasteries. War. Billionaire brands.’ Which region, though, would be, ‘Bugs. Trains. A fascist’.
It is none other than the beloved region of Rioja, which is the subject of my latest ode to wine.
The Wines Of Rioja: A Very, Very Brief History
Wines have been produced in Rioja in northwest Spain for donkey’s years. The Romans introduced viniculture here, and the wines enjoyed an excellent local reputation. The wines came to international prominence in the 1850s when phylloxera – a root-chewing bug – devastated much of France’s vineyards, most notably in nearby Bordeaux. Bordeaux winemakers in need of work decamped to Rioja, bringing expertise in the use of oak, amongst other things, and helped take the wines to a whole new level.
Around this time, the railway finally reached the wine towns of Haro and Logrono. This meant that Rioja could be transported easily to the rest of Spain and the ports, which have them access to international markets.
Owing to the world wars and the Spanish Civil War, the region fell on hard times in the early part of the 20th century, and it was only with the rise to power of Franco that its fortunes were restored. Franco was mad about wine and wanted to see Rioja take its rightful place on the world stage. In one of his (extremely rare) good deads, he helped ensure that the wines were produced to high standards and became sought after again.
Rioja Today: New Classic Wines
Today, Rioja is rightly regarded as one of the great wine regions of the world. Its capacity for value is unrivalled, and there’s a surprising level of diversity in the nature and styles of wine, between the traditional and the modernist. In this article, I will offer you the benefit of my 30-odd-year obsession with this beautiful, complex, generous wine region, which I hope will whet your appetite for these extraordinary wines.
Let’s begin with the wine that started my love affair with Rioja, the Cune Crianza (Sainsbury’s £9). I first encountered this as Harrods’ Rioja when a Spanish colleague Carlos recommended it as a star staff buy. He wasn’t wrong. To this day, I can remember it. As someone who’d been brought up on Bordeaux and wines from the Midi and the Rhone, this was a revelation. A wine packed with exuberant red and blackberry fruit, spices, citrus peel, and creamy vanilla, it was as if I’d been drinking black and white wines, and this was my introduction to colour. I had the 2018 last night and found it just as diverting as I did all those years ago.
Next are two whites. White Rioja was, for the longest time, something that was best avoided. The Riojans’ idea that wood was good, so more wood is better, worked well (to an extent) with the reds, but for whites, it was often folly. A familiar tasting note for white Rioja in the 1990s was, ‘Smells of old chip fat, colour of old chip fat, tastes of… old chip fat.’ Happily, those days are gone, as these two contrasting corkers show.
The Muga Blanco (Majestic £12.99) is a modernist interpretation and is bottled summer. A blend of mainly Viura and Malvasia, the nose is bright, full of apple blossom, pears, and a hint of honey. In the mouth, it’s clean and delicate, yet the persistent fruit notes of pears, honeydew melon, apricots, and tangy gooseberries give it oomph.
By contrast, the Cune Barrel Fermented Rioja Blanco (Waitrose £10) is an altogether more rounded, richer, mellow, traditional iteration. This is one of my favourite white wines, and I must have had close to 30 different vintages. The consistency is remarkable, and it never fails to please. The latest vintage has the same ripe, soft mouthfeel and generosity of fruit I’ve come to expect, but this time out, there’s a nutty edge to buttery peach, apricot, and green apple fruit. A great wine for summer sipping.
I mentioned my adoration for the wines of Contino in my last column, and I make no apology for mentioning one again this time. This time, it’s the Contino Reserva 2017. You can often tell a lot about the quality of wine and the vintage by the wine’s classification. In Germany, higher levels of sugar are revered and in rare vintages, you get the mighty trockenberenausle, which has so much sugar in grapes that it can take months to ferment and end up with 6 or 7 degrees of alcohol. In Champagne, it’s if a wine is vintage or not, and in Rioja it’s about the level of oak ageing the wine can sustain. Categories such as Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva all have pre-release ageing requirements in barrel and bottle, and as a crude rule of thumb, the more it can take, the better the wine is and the higher its designation.
The Contino Reserva 2017 (Noble Green £22) is an outstanding glass of wine. 2017 was a ‘challenging’ year – in the same way that nailing water to a wall with a hammer made of ice is challenging – yet by virtue of having a sublime vineyard and uncompromising winemakers with exceptional skill, they have turned out a sumptuous wine.
The nose in an inviting blend of smoked black fruit, tapenade, and cranberries. The voluptuous palate is medium-bodied, full of brambles, strawberries, hints of chocolate and raspberries, and a good helping mixed spice. As hard and angular as a bubble bath in a paddling pool, this won’t make seriously old bones, but it’s seriously good now.
Marqués de Cáceres is one of those Rioja brands – like Campo Viejo – that seemed to lose their way some years ago. For the longest time, their red, white, and rosé wines were a supermarket staple, and while they were OK for the money, that’s all they were. Today, they are back in a big way. Flagship wines like Gaudium are well worth their £40+ price tag. For rather more modest money, the Marqués de Cáceres Reserva (Majestic £12.99) is deep joy. This is the old-school Rioja. High extract with lots of dried blackcurrants, plums, warm spices, vanilla, and orange peel; this is perfect for red meats and hard Spanish cheeses.
Generally speaking I don’t tend to go for Gran Reserva wines. Rioja’s – unfair – reputation as wood aged in wine stems from this style. Eager to use the impressive designation, too many industrial producers have subjected wines that didn’t have the fruit of the extract to carry such a weight of oak, and the results weren’t great.
When done well, however, Gran Reserva Rioja can be glorious. Take the Beronia Gran Reserva 2015 (Majestic £21). Hailing from a great vintage, even after 28 months in cask, it remains deeply coloured, with a bramble, red cherry, and plum scented nose. In the mouth the fruity continues to take centre stage, with layer-upon-layer of black and red berries rounded off by creamy oak. Great now, this has a long future.
Roda may not be a winery you’re familiar with, but in the course of 30-odd year life, it’s taken Rioja by storm. Roda is the picture of modernity in a traditional region. They restrict the amount of oak, favour French (subtler, more expensive) over American, use cooler fermentation temperatures, and aim to bring a subtle expression of Rioja to life. The resulting wines are fascinating, combining traditional flavours with an arresting delicacy of approach. The Roda 1 2016 (Master of Malt £29.95) offers a great introduction to these beguiling wines.
Still with me? Good, only two to go, and what a pair…
Vina Real is another traditional wine, but there’s a delicacy and a flair to their wines that I’ve always loved. My latest encounter with this noble wine was the Vina Real 2016 Reserva (Tanners £21.50). This is a red berry and spices wine. The colour is paler than some thanks to four years in barrel, and buttery oak runs through it like Brighton through a stick of Brighton rock. It doesn’t overwhelm, however. Instead, it adds cream tones to the wide range of juicy berries, and gives a wine that was made for food.
And finally, a budget-busting classic, the Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva 2010 (Petersham Cellars £275). Now, £275 is an awful lot of money for a bottle of wine, but this is a rare beast. Only mad in exceptional years and aged for five years in oak and a further five in bottle – sometimes even longer – this a wonderful curio. Showing none of its age, it’s bright red and youthfully intense. Medium-bodied, mouth-filling, creamy and exotic, there’s everything from blackcurrants and cherries to Asian spices, coffees, dark marmalade, and charcoal. It’s a great Rioja experience, at a price.
Well, that’s it for now. All this talk of Rioja has given me a thirst the size of CVNE’s barrel hall.
