Grilled Nectarine & Feta Salad (pictured above)
Classic cassoulet
Blue Collar Corner, Reading’s street food and drinks arena in Hosier Street, is uncovering it’s roof terrace and preparing for summer with a packed line-up of events and DJs this month.
Events include two days of hosting the South Eastern heats of the British Street Food Awards, a Supporter Trust at Reading (STAR) evening with Mark Bowen and the Reading FC off field team plus live music.
“We can’t wait to bring British Street Food Awards to Blue Collar Corner on Saturday 18th and Sunday 19th April” Glen Dinning of Blue Collar says, “We last hosted the Awards at Market Place in November 2020 where the quality and variety of food on offer was incredible. It’s so exciting to see future food trends – this is a chance to experience the very best of the British street food scene, vote for your favourites and support independent businesses.
“Variety of food is an ongoing theme here at Blue Collar Corner now with our four kitchens on short term rotations between two to four weeks each keeping the food option fresh and exciting.
“Our evenings with Brian McDermott in conversation last year were very special events. Glen continues “so we’re really happy to be welcoming more Reading FC related events on Wednesday 26th April when the Supporters Trust of Reading host an evening with Mark Bowen and the off field team.”
“We’ve uncovered our roof terrace and are getting the site summer ready” Glen continued, “Our live acoustic Sunday sessions have been a big hit recently. Our next of these will be the 19 Something Festival Launch on Sunday 23rd April, raising money for Age UK with stripped down live sets from a selection of local acts.”
This month you can enjoy:
Sat 18th Apr – British Street Food Awards + DJ Rob Wire + DJ Chris Gale
Sun 19th Apr – British Street Food Awards
Thu 20th Apr – Feel Good Thursdays w/ DJ Rich Sloman
Fri 21st Apr – DJs Elle Cee & Kingpinn
Sat 22nd Apr – Rum & Donuts DJs + DJ Arthur
Sun 23th Apr – 19 Something Festival launch in aid of Age UK
Wed 26th Apr – Supporters Trust at Reading w/ Mark Bowen & off field team
Thu 27th Apr – Feel Good Thursdays w/ DJ Slippery People
Fri 28th Apr – DJ Acronym
Sat 29th Apr – DJ Mark Fitzpatrick + DJ Gilbert
Sun 30th Apr – Rum & Donuts DJs + DJs Elle Cee & Kingpinn
For full info on Blue Collar’s April DJ sets and events (including their Cheese Feast event in Forbury on 28th-30th April), see blue.collar | Facebook | Linktree or follow their socials at @bluecollarfood.
Tips and hacks
Recipe – Roasted Sheet Pan Salmon with Spring Veg and Pesto
With spring around the corner and gardens being spruced up for the warmer weather to come, Traeger – makers of world-leading premium wood pellet BBQ’s – are holding a Trager Fest Weekend, at Webbs of Millets Farm, Kingston Rd, Frilford, Abingdon OX13 5HB on 15th and 16th April.
There’s something for all foodie tastes at Traeger Fest. On the Saturday, Traeger will be showcasing Classic American themed food, including dishes such as delicious Smashed Burgers, Chicken Wings and Cookies.
Sunday’s theme will be traditional English Roast Dinner, including a range of tasty classics such Roast Pork with Roast Potatoes and Yorkshire Puddings – all cooked on Traeger grills.
BBQ lovers can pop along at any time, to experience music, delicious food, and Traeger’s famous wood pellet grills. A Traeger chef will be on hand all weekend to showcase the grills, share top grilling tips, and hand out delicious samples to try.
Everyone is welcome to come along and soak up the Traeger atmosphere and you might even pick up some lovely new plants for your garden whilst you are there!
What’s your top trick for cleaning your grill?
• Clean little and often rather than letting it build up. Using a Traeger cleaning spray helps.
• Wipe it down while it’s still hot! It’s much easier to do than when it’s cold. If you don’t have a wooden Traeger scraper, a ball of tinfoil works really well. Do this either at the end of your cook or once you’ve preheated the BBQ.
• For the grill grate itself, grill brush to scrape away large pieces and then a half onion on a hot grill to sterilise and flavour. The acids in the onion will help lift the grease.
What’s your top BBQ cooking hack?
• Always give yourself more time than you think you’ll need! Worst case scenario, the food is done a little early. Wrap it up, put your oven on the lowest setting (usually around 60c) and keep it warm.
• No matter what happens with a cook, even if it goes wrong, it can more than likely be recused and still turned into something amazing.
• Re-season your food with the rub you have used to start with, it adds a big depth of flavour.
• To BBQ the juiciest chicken wings with the crispiest skin – cook them at two different temperatures. Start by smoking them low and slow to lock in the flavour, then half way through – turn up the temperature to crisp up the skin.
• Wrap an assembled burger in foil and put it back on the grill. Takes it to the next juiciest level!
What trends do you think will be big this year in BBQ?
• Cheaper/ different cuts of meat will feature heavily as people want better value for money with the cost of living crisis and want as much bang for their buck.
• Mexican food such as tacos and easy one pot recipes such as Goulash or stews.
• Smoking food and cooking low and slow are going to be big trends this year. This method of cooking is definitely becoming more popular in the UK with dishes such as smoked pulled pork, ribs and wings.
• We see more and more foods getting ‘smashed’. It started with the avocado, then we had burgers last season… Now we can see smashed potatoes next
• We should start to see more plant based and gluten free products as health comes to the top agenda.
• Batch cooking will return and with the mindset of healthy meal planning and reducing food waste.
What’s your go-to veggie dish to cook on a BBQ?
• Moroccan vegetable tagine or buffalo spiced cauliflower steaks.
• Corn on the cob with any Italian hard cheese and chilli melted on top.
• Grill Hispi cabbage, then while still hot, drizzle a jalapeno or chipotle honey sauce, making sure it gets between the layers. Finish with crumbled feta and crispy onions.
• Smoked cream cheese is a great little snack when you have people round. Sprinkle some rub onto the cheese and then drizzle on some hot honey once it’s done. Break out the ritz crackers and boom, your finest smokey, cheesy sharing dish.
• A smoked, confit vegetable tart.
• Vegetable pockets. Mix together Carrots, peas, cauliflower and broccoli mix together in a white or cheesy sauce and wrap it all up in puff pastry.
What’s your go-to veggie or vegan dish to cook on a BBQ?
• Braised carrots in a stock that’s flavoured with everything you will find in pickle vinegar, then smoke then and serve them as ‘not dogs’.
• A tray bake is always a good one to do. Throw in some new potatoes with a load of veggies. Sprinkle some Traeger Veggie rub over the top and bake in the Traeger until everything’s lovely and soft.
• Some smoked confit tomatoes which make an incredible bruschetta or a fantastic brown sugar and cinnamon slow smoked butternut squash.
Why are pellets the best way to grill?
• Wood pellets are clean, efficient, cost effective, family friendly and they produce the most incredible clean smokey flavour.
• Pellets are the best way to grill as they enhance the flavour of whatever you are cooking, depending on which wood flavour you use. You get such a big punch of flavour even from a small number of pellets.
• Wood pellets give you all the smoke flavour you need, with none of the hassle. You don’t have to worry about fire management like other methods of grilling, which means you can put 100% of your focus on the food and have 1 less thing to stress about.
How to cook the perfect steak?
• Use the reverse sear method. Season your steak with Traeger coffee rub, set your Traeger to 110c and insert the built in probe or Meater probe. If you like a medium rare steak, once the internal temperature hits 46c, remove the steak from the grill. Put the Traeger cast iron on the grate to heat up first, then add the steak and turn up the temperature as high as it goes. Sear each side for just a couple of minutes until you’ve hit 56c internal.
• Always use a good rub that’s made for the type of meat you are cooking. With Steak – use a beef rub.
• Use a steak that is at least a 1-inch thick and has the same thickness throughout, to ensure a uniform cook throughout the steak: Reverse Seared Ribeye Steaks Recipe – Traeger Grills
• Most importantly, let the meat rest, so any juices have come out before serving.
Ingredients
• 1 Thick cut steak (no less than 1″) of your choice
• Traeger Blackened Saskatchewan Rub
• Steak needs to acclimatise to room temperature, so allow it to rest out of the fridge for around 30 minutes. If you hit your steak with heat straight from the fridge, it will contract and seize up and you will have a tough piece of meat.
• Pat your steak dry with some kitchen roll and season liberally with traeger blackened Saskatchewan and leave it on the side for 30 minutes.
• Set your traeger for 100 degrees c using Traeger Signature pellets where possible.
• Place your meat probe into the thickest part of your steak, making sure you avoid any fat as this will increase your temperatures.
• Grill on both sides as you prefer.
How important is it marinade meat or fish before you BBQ?
• It’s important for a few reasons. A marinade will add flavour, help tenderise the meat and lock in important juices. Try adding marinade or re-season while the meat or fish is resting to add even more flavour.
• Don’t overpower with too much rub or marinade, so that the star of the show doesn’t lose its identity.
What would be the perfect dish to create on your grill to celebrate the King’s Coronation?
• Coronation roasted rack of lamb with an asian style marinade served with roasted potatoes and green salad.
• Probably a suckling pig, with smoked apple sauce, red cabbage, beer gravy, loads of roasted veg and roasted potatoes!
• A coronation Chicken burger! A classic BBQ food, with a coronation twist. Who doesn’t love a good burger?
• King Charles is a very keen farmer so perhaps a classic roast beef with all the trimmings, championing the UK produce would be the best BBQ meal, fit for a king!
Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 12 mins | Serves: 4
The beauty of this recipe is that it all cooks together in 10-12 minutes! Salmon is such a crowd-pleaser on the grill and is a perfect match for these spring vegetables with pesto. But how often do we focus on crispy salmon skin? This recipe cooks the salmon with the skin side up for a beautiful presentation for those who love the skin. And if you don’t care for it? No worries! Cook it skin-side down and it will still be beautiful.
Ingredients
• 4 Salmon pieces (100g), skin on, pin bones removed
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• Rock salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 16 fresh asparagus spears, sliced into 2.5cm pieces
• 180g cherry tomatoes, rinsed and halved
• 300g sugar snap peas
• 1 1/2 lemons halved
• 85g fresh pesto
• 2/3 lemon, zested
• Fresh basil leaves for garnish
Steps
1. When ready to cook, set the temperature to high and preheat, lid closed for 15 minutes.
2. Rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towel. Brush all sides of the salmon with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and sprinkle generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper on all sides. Place the salmon pieces skin-side up on the sheet tray (or down if preferred) leaving 2 inches between each piece.
3. Place the asparagus, sugar snap peas and cherry tomatoes in a bowl. Gently mix the vegetables with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a fresh grinding of pepper. Scatter the vegetables evenly onto the sheet pan.
4. Place the sheet pan on the grill. In addition, place the lemons cut-side down directly on the grill grate towards the front of the grill. Close the lid and cook for 5 minutes at 80°C
5. After 5 minutes, remove the lemons from the grill and stir the vegetables. Close the lid and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the fish reaches an internal temperature of 60°C and can be flaked with a fork.
6. Remove the sheet pan from the grill. Place the fish and vegetables on a serving platter and drizzle with the pesto. Sprinkle the lemon zest over the top of the fish and vegetables and add a few basil leaves for garnish. Serve immediately. Enjoy!
The Michelin results are out and Tom Kerridge’s pubs have successfully maintained the prestigious accolades at both The Hand & Flowers (Head Chef Tom De Keyser) and The Coach (Head Chef Sarah Hayward), both in Marlow.
Head Chef Sarah Hayward also won big at last night’s Michelin Guide Awards for Great Britain and Ireland taking home the Young Chef Award at the prestigious event in Silverstone, where Tom Kerridge joined Sarah on stage to congratulate her. Michelin described Sarah as ‘tenacious and determined yet modest’.
Tom says: “I am obviously delighted that Tom and Sarah and the teams have maintained their Michelin stars, they are both incredible chefs who I have worked alongside now for many years. I am particularly thrilled for Sarah winning the Young Chef Award, she is a fantastic chef, level-headed, grounded, focused and truly dedicated to her craft. She has put her own stamp on The Coach, I’m so proud of her, she is such a talent.”
Sarah said: “Wow, I am really blown away to be honest and really humbled to receive the Young Chef Award, what an honour. I have so much respect for Michelin and I know how proud my dad will be, being a chef himself. I’m so grateful to my team and of course Tom Kerridge, who has helped me become the chef I am today and given me the confidence and belief that I can achieve anything.”
Maintaining two Michelin stars at The Hand & Flowers, Head Chef Tom De Keyser says: “I am delighted, myself, the kitchen and front of house team work so hard throughout the year to keep standards as high as they can be and I couldn’t be prouder of the team. There will definitely be a few celebratory drinks!”
Hello! With Easter in the offing and the prospect of some downtime over the extended weekend, I thought I’d look out for some wines to suit the season and the celebration. I’ve always loved Easter. As a good Catholic boy, it meant a deluge of chocolate (scoffed between seemingly endless trips to Mass), and later in life, it marked the end of Lent and a return to wine. Now, while I can’t claim to have forsworn wine for the forty days – the attempt would have been sworn at – I have made the acquittance of some wines that I’m sure will brighten your Easter break. So, in the spirit of helping my fellow man, here are six of the Easter best:
First up, one of the prettiest rosés I’ve seen in a long time, the Provence Rosé from Adnams (£11.99). While many rosés seem to focus on creating looks so exotic they would put a Versace perfume bottle to shame. Adnams seem to have focused their efforts on the contents – I know, a fresh form of madness or what? It has paid off, however, as the wine is so attractive. Made from Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, the nose offers enticing tones of flowers, red berries, and citrus. On the palate, there’s a seem or pure red berry (raspberry, strawberry, and bitter cranberry) that’s deliciously offset by citrus and minerals. If the sun decides to shine this Easter, this will make a superb garden sipper.
My next recommendation is an Albarino. Albarino is a grape whose class is undeniable, whose wines can be astonishingly good, and is regarded as a national treasure in its native Spain. Think liquid Stephen Fry without the passion for Norwich City, and you won’t be far off. While there are many great ones out there, the Pazo San Mauro (Palmers Wine Store £17.42) is a real treat. Freshness is the keyword here. From the explosive grapefruit, green apple, and herb-tinted nose to the ripe yet tangy pear, peach, melon and lemon palate, this is as clean as a whistle. Look closer, and you’ll find depth and complexity. Nectarine, minerals, a shot of honey. This is made for seafood – literally in Spain – but would be glorious with green salads, chicken, smoked fish, or Good Friday’s fish supper.
Sticking with Spain but moving to the other end of the tasting spectrum, we have the Contino Blanco 2019 (Noble Grape £23.99) – confession time; I’m obsessed with Contino’s Riojas. There’s something magical about this producer. Maybe it’s how they meld tradition with innovation or how they can create so many extraordinary styles from a single estate. Or simply as the wines are often breath-taking.
Breath-taking is the word I’d use for the Contino Blanco. I’ve only had this wine once, so perhaps I’m still in the first flush of infatuation, but it seemed to be love at first sip. Mid-gold, the bouquet is complex, displaying honey, almonds, pears, lemons, and wax. In the mouth, it’s mellow but clean, with layer-upon-layer of orchard fruits, warm spices, honey, lime, and butter. A real show stopper, give this a couple of hours open and pair it with white meats or fish.
Easter Sunday will see us hosting half the western world – pop in if you’re at a loose end; one more won’t make any odds. With recovery Monday the following day and with roast beef a must, a goodly supply of a great value red is a necessity. This year I’ve got some of the Antakari Carmenere Reserve (Laithwaites £8.99). Carmenere is Chile’s signature grape, and this iteration is packed with soft blackberry and blueberry fruit, with underlying notes of chocolate. Easy drinking; it’s a great wine that offers great value.
Back to Spain, we have another Rioja, this time the Vina Real Crianza 2019 (Waitrose £12.40). This is Rioja in exuberant form. Made from Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo, it’s red berry-driven, but beneath the surface are richer tones of plum, creamy oak, spices, and orange zest. This is one of those wines that cries out for a food partner, and dishes as varied as cheesy pasta, tapas, roasted red meats, or, weather-permitting, barbecued fare would be ideal.
My penultimate wine is something of a myth-buster. To many, the name Beaujolais conjures up visions of hoorays charging to France in November to bring back Nouveau (why they bothered, I’ll never know) or pretty but forgettable flower-adorned bottles from Dubouef. Real Beaujolais is made from sterner stuff and is Burgundy’s best-kept secret. had the Louis Jadot Beaujolias Villages 2021 (Tesco £12.50) last week, and it was fantastic. My expectations were high as 2021 was a lovely year for Burgundy, and I wasn’t disappointed. With its bouquet of cherries, bubblegum, blackberries, and wildflowers, it’s as pretty as a picture of, well, something nice. In the mouth, there are the same fruit tones, but there are minerals, strawberry conserve, mint and almonds, all presented in a soft, edgeless body.
And finally, fizz. Oh, come on, you didn’t think I’d do a column without mentioning it? Might as well expect the rain not to be wet. Easter is a time for celebration, so here are two gems for you. The first is the Bouvet Ladubay Saumur Rosé (Majestic £10.49). Saumur in France’s Loire Valley was making sparkling wines when the likes of Dom Perignon were getting to grips with their Ladybird Book Of The Catechism. With its marginal climate, free-draining limestone soils, and long growing season, Saumur is a great place to create quality sparkling wines. The pale pink fizz bristles with notes of black cherry, green peppers, apples, peach stones and creamy yeast.
My second is Champagne Taittinger’s Nocturne (Tesco £39). Nocturne is a ‘sec’ Champagne, which means it’s not as dry as a brut. This wine demands time, one to sip after a meal or into the evening. The classic, elegant Taittinger style is there, but the extra residual sugar extenuates the peaches in syrup tone to give a champagne that, while far from an off-dry demi-sec, has a certain richness and silky, tropical edge to it. It’s a marvellous accompaniment to good conversation and gives a fresh view of this historic wine.
Well, that’s it for now. Next time, I’ll look at some wines from that bastion of brilliance, the Rhône, but until then, have a great Easter.
This typical Neapolitan dish is sometimes referred to as pasta alla marinara or simply as con olive e capperi, which are com-mon ingredients is this part of Italy. The name Puttanesca came about in the mid-20th century it was claimed that this dish was served in the brothels of Naples – puttana means ‘whore’ in Italian. Another theory was that a restaurant owner on the island of Ischia put together this dish when a group of late-night customers asked him to make una puttanata qualsiasi – in other words, make whatever you’ve got to hand. And that is exactly what he did with the ingredients he found in his kitchen. Whatever the reason behind its title, this spicy pasta dish is quick and simple to prepare with store cupboard ingredients.
This traditional hearty Tuscan soup is perfect for using up vegetables and stale bread. It was born out of a necessity to make meals go further and last longer. It was probably also made to be eaten for several days, hence its name Ribollita, which means “to reboil”. You can use any type of cabbage, spring greens and spinach and basically any vegetables you have.
Surrey-based Hogs Back Brewery is adding to its Little Swine family of low alcohol beers with the launch of flavoured craft ale Little Ginger Swine.
With an ABV of 0.5%, and spiced up with natural ginger extract after brewing, Little Ginger Swine is a full-bodied, flavoured pale ale, brewed with four speciality malts and three hop varieties including aromatic Cascade from Hogs Back’s own hop garden, and dry hopped with Mosaic for a robust citrus finish.
The addition of ginger gives a spicy kick which complements the crisp, smooth, ale, creating a memorable beer that punches well above its weight in flavour terms, despite its low ABV. Little Ginger Swine join Little Swine 2.8% and Little Swine 0.5% in Hogs Back’s expanding range of low alcohol beers.
Hogs Back Brewery managing director Rupert Thompson said: “We’re delighted to be expanding our Little Swine family. The strong consumer response to the existing Little Swine beers has shown that demand for low alcohol beers with plenty of character continues to grow.
“Little Ginger Swine has all the fiery character you’d expect from ginger with some to spare. We think that’s all part of its charm. It has a wonderful flavour that offers something different for the increasing number of beer drinkers enjoying low alcohol beers, making Little Ginger Swine a welcome new addition to the Little Swine family of beers.”
Little Ginger Swine 0.5% ABV is available in 500ml bottles with an RRP of £2.40.
On Friday 10th March, Reading’s popular street food and drinks arena Blue Collar Corner is celebrating 12 months as a permanent site in Hosier Street with a big free entry birthday bash.
Headlining the event will be viral sensation acoustic rave pioneers The Showhawk Duo, festival favourites famous for playing all the best dance/rave songs we know and love on two acoustic guitars, with millions of YouTube views.
Joining The Showhawk Duo on the night will be Rum & Donuts DJs, a trio of Blue Collar Corner resident DJs that know a thing or two about filling dancefloors, having recently warmed up for Grandmaster Flash and provided the soundtrack for Double Barrelled Brewery’s fourth birthday party last October. The party begins at 5pm and continues until midnight with Blue Collar bars serving celebratory booze all evening and Sarv’s Slice, El Asado and YouBao serving delicious street food until 10pm.
Blue Collar’s Glen Dinning said: “After the year of our lives, of summer boozing, next level street food, rotating beers and cocktails, a winter refurb, a cost of living crisis, World Cup screenings, massive DJ sets and live music, our baby will celebrate it’s first birthday on Friday 10th March.
“We’ll be going big that weekend,” Glen continues, “starting on Thursday 9th with the return of Thursday DJs and the launch of a special first birthday beer from Double Barrelled Brewery. On Friday it’s the big birthday bash with The Showhawk Duo & Rum & Donuts DJs. Saturday starts with an Indie Brunch followed by Six Nations rugby on our big screens then a party set from DJ Acronym.
“On Sunday 12th, we are raising funds for homelessness prevention charity, Launchpad, one of our partner charities, alongside local indie band Third Lung. Between 12-5pm we’ll have a stripped down live set from Third Lung, Loveless, Reliant & Who Ate All The Crayons.”
More events take place at Blue Collar Corner throughout March including the return of Big Jay’s Big Drag Brunch on Saturday 25th March. Reading Vintage Flea Market launches on Sunday 26th March, bringing a host of stalls from local dealers specialising in affordable original vintage, mid-century furniture, decor, home ware, clothing, signs, art and posters to the venue.
Full listings for DJs and events at Blue Collar Corner in March can be found below. More info on separate events is available at blue.collar | Facebook | Linktree
Thu 9th March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Rich Sloman
Fri 10th March – 1st Birthday Party w/Showhawk Duo + Rum & Donuts DJs
Sat 11th March – Indie Brunch + Six Nations: England v France + DJ Acronym
Sun 12th March – Launchpad Fundraiser w/Third Lung (Stripped down) + guests
Thu 16th March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Mark Fitzpatrick
Sat 18th March – Six Nations: Super Saturday + DJ Fajita Funk
Sun 19th March – Mother’s Day Specials
Thu 23rd March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Rich Sloman
Fri 24th March – DJ Ryan MacGregor
Sat 25th March – Big Jay’s Big Drag Brunch + Rum & Donuts DJs + DJs Elle Cee & Kingpinn
Sun 26th March – Reading Vintage Flea Market + Boat Race Screening
Thu 30th March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Rich Sloman
Fri 31st March – DJ Acronym
Hello. You’ll have to excuse the punning on that famous Elvis Costello song in the headline… But given Elvis’s predilection for all things boozy back then, I’m sure wine played a part in creating his 1981 album. Surely he’d had to have had a few to think doing a country and western album was a good idea for a follow up to his Motown-inspired Get Happy!
Anyway, rosé wines have certainly been on my mind of late. The warmth of the early spring sunshine always gives me a craving for rosé, and a recent trawl past many a tasting table has introduced me to some glorious new wines, ones that will ensure that 2023 will be a good year for the rosés.
First up, the Moulin de Pontfract Rosé 2021 (Laithwaites £8.99). This is a Provençal-style rosé from the neighbouring department of Var. If it was from Provence, it would probably come in a bottle that Jean Paul Gautier rejected for being outrageous and have a similarly outlandish price tag. This is a lovely, gentle rosé that offers a softly scented nose of red berries and blossom, while the palate is suffused with notes of strawberries, cranberries, and a hint of citrus on finish – just the thing for a spring lunch aperitif.
Next, a wine from Chile. Chilean wines offer an amazing combination of value and quality, and while the reds often steal the show, the rosés can be sublime. Take the Phantom River Sauvignon Blanc Rosé (Sainsbury’s £5.25). As you might expect from a Sauvignon, this is bright, zesty, fresh, and full of grapefruit and citrus. The addition of Shiraz (hence the colour) lends it weight and depth and imparts a satisfying note of blackcurrants to proceedings. Try this with green salads and roasted poultry or baked fish.
Spain is another good source of outstanding rosés – or rosados. Over the years, I’ve tasted hundreds, and rarely have I been disappointed. Recently I tried a new wine from a classic producer. Freixenet is best known for their excellent range of Cavas (more of those soon…), but they are also dab hands at still wines. Take their excellent Freixenet Rosado (Slurp £10). Garnacha-based, this is disarmingly pretty in pink but packs a punch. Bright strawberry and raspberry tones are joined by flavours of red cherry, orange and a touch of spice. Lovely on its own, I think this would partner well with rice dishes and cured meats.
As regular readers of this column may have gathered, I’m something of a fizz fan, in the same way that pandas are partial to bamboo. I recently had another encounter with an English sparkling wine with which we toasted the Queen’s Jubilee, the Balfour Brut Rosé (Waitrose £39.99). I recall being struck by how harmonious and refined this was when I first tried it and revisiting it; it’s even better. Bold strawberry, raspberry, and red currant notes tinted with creamy yeast, a lively, fresh mid-palate, and a long, salted digestive biscuit finish make this a class act.
When most people think of Sancerre, their thoughts turn to gloriously leafy Sauvignons with their dry, mineral-rich finishes. Sancerre also comes in red and rosé styles which are produced using that most noble of vines, Pinot Noir. These tend to be more expensive and can be quite hard to find, so I was surprised to find an affordable example at Tesco, their Finest Sancerre Rosé (as opposed to their non-existent ‘ordinary’ or ‘value’ Sancerre Rosé – £13). This retains the classic Sancerre freshness and minerality, but with raspberry, strawberry, beetroot, black cherry, and pepper touches. This is fresh enough to be enjoyed on it’s own, but it would go brilliantly with pork or salmon.
And to finish, how about something indulgent, refined, and utterly exquisite? The Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Rosé (Mr. Wheeler £62.50) is all these things and more. This is one of the best rosé Champagnes I’ve ever had – and believe me, I’ve gone miles out of my way over the years to try as many as I can. The magic of this wine is how they manage to combine intensity with grace and generosity. This is a stunning wine offering layer upon layer of ripe strawberry, tangy blackberry, creamy yeast, soft apricot , and a dash of leafy blackcurrant. I’ve been fortunate enough to try this beautiful wine in various formats; the halves sit perfectly in the secret pocket of a Barber when you fancy a cheeky rinse at the cricket, and in magnum, it shows how well Champagne can age and develop. In any size bottle, this is a wine every wine lover should try.
Well, there’s a bottle of Freixenet Rosado in the fridge needing my attention, so I must away. Next time out, I’ll dive deeply into my favourite red wine region, Rioja.
With the weather still stubbornly wintry, and mojo levels decidedly lacking, the perfect roast is exactly what the doctor ordered. But where to find this mythical beast?
I had heard amazing things about The Oarsman, right in the heart of Marlow (the foodies’ favourite, with its pick of delicious delicatessens and boui bistros) and was delighted to find myself here last Sunday, with a leisurely lunchtime at my disposal as well as a similarly food-obsessed pal.
The indulgent interior of this gastro gem does not disappoint, with its arse-friendly banquettes and copper details glowing with promise at the pass. Last month saw the launch of The Oarsman’s special guest chef series creating one-off collaborative menus with head chef Scott Smith.
I had left my (mostly) vegetarian household far behind me for the day to indulge in some hearty doses of fresh meat… and it more than lived up to the hype. One of Scott’s classics (which apparently won the hearts and minds of the pub’s gaffers Nigel Sutcliffe and James McLean, and has stayed on the menu ever since) is bacon & trotters which we just had to try. This savoury joy more than delivers on its promise, as did the simply stunning classic fish soup with rouille and lacy cheesy croutons. After a refreshing marmalade martini, the main event, the holy grail of the perfect roast was then delivered not once but twice.
The perfectly pink entrecote of beef was matched by a towering Yorkshire pud and layered fondant tatties and spiced carrot that sang with the rich meaty gravy. Gina was genial enough to go swapsies halfway through, and it was a toss-up as to whether the porchetta, wrapped in the crispiest crackling of your foodiest dreams and cabbage (with a ladylike wodge of that dreamy potato again) was even better.
The staff seem rightly proud of everything served here and it was their warm praise of Scott’s Ecclefechan tart (a festive, fruity Scottish fave) with an impossibly gleamy and creamy artisan cheese that persuaded us to take a swerve from our usual chocolate choice that served us well.
I had to have a lie down after our feast – I haven’t felt that indulged since my post Christmas game-induced meat sweats. Hearty, old-school and satisfying, the Oarsman deserves a whole afternoon and a designated driver to do its offering the full justice.
The next star chefs to take the pass in the series are Simon Bonwick, Ben Tish and Daniel Smith. To book, call 01628 617755 or visit theoarsman.co.uk to find out more and check out the menu.