Sushi masterclass with Tomono Davies

Liz Nicholls

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Tomono Davies brings an array of Japanese joy to parties in local kitchens with her sushi masterclasses. She’s on a roll – here’s why you should book in for a masterclass or work party

Lockdown was difficult for all, not least Tomono Davies who was unable to fly home to visit her family in her native Kochi, a sunny city between Shikoku Mountain and the Pacific Ocean. However, during this homesick period she put all of her energy into her business, which has really taken off over the past three years.

“I’m amazed how successful the parties have become,” she says in her own spotless kitchen in High Wycombe. “I tried to be strong and focusing on work really helped me.”

Since moving to the UK 26 years ago, Tomono has missed Japanese food hugely, especially sushi. Back then, Japanese ingredients had not widely crossed the oceans, so she began making it with local ingredients and without special equipment.

“Sushi is not typically made at home in Japan,” says Tomono. “It is something we used to have as take-away for celebrations or enjoy out at restaurants. But when you miss something and know there’s no access to what you miss, people will always invent something new! After many failed, I found keeping it simple and authentic is the best way.”

With Tomono Sushi Party she takes hands-on masterclasses, demonstrations and parties to workplaces and homes across south Bucks and north London. From rolling maki to forming little gunkan boats or hand-shaping temari, guests have given great feedback, which has helped her business grow by word of mouth.

“My mother used to wake up at 5am to cook us a fresh breakfast – obento – and if she had 30 minutes to spare in her lunch break, she would drive home to start preparing for dinner,” adds Tomono. “I never appreciated my mother’s passion for food but now I am a mother myself, this is a tradition I would definitely like to pass on to the next generation.

“Some people might find sushi intimidating, but it’s not; it’s 90% rice, after all. What’s been lovely is helping all the generations enjoy food and new flavours together and it’s great fun. I bring all the kit and also my kimonos which people love to try on for photos.”

“What’s been lovely is helping all the generations enjoy food and new flavours together.”

For those who aren’t fish-lovers, Tomono can offer delicious alternatives such as teriyaki beef and she caters for all dietary requirements such as vegan, kosher and even gluten-free.

Enjoy a Sushi Making Workshop at The Front Room in High Wycombe, 1-2.30pm, on Saturday, 9th September.

At the moment, Tomono is offering an earlybird offer for a corporate event for booking for Monday-Wednesday in November and December.

Visit Tomono Sushi Party

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French connection: Wines Of The Roussillon

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Round and About Magazine’s wine columnist Giles Luckett rediscovers the amazing wines of France’s Roussillon, and finds value and excellence in equal measure

The Roussillon Revolution

Wine surprises and buses, as the old saying goes. You wait six years for one to come along and then two turn up in two months. OK, I’m paraphrasing slightly, but six years after my revelatory tour of Australia and weeks after my eye-opening trip to Portugal, I discover my knowledge of the wines of the Roussillon is about as contemporary as my daughter’s 2012 Frozen calendar.

I was introduced to the wines of the Roussillon in the early 1990s. Bordeaux Direct (Laithwaites) were early importers of their red wines which were generally powerful, slightly rustic affairs with a distinct wild herb tang. They were big, bold, and brilliant value, but were about as serious as my daughter’s calendar – she needs to let it go!

A recent tasting showed me how much things have changed. While the brilliance and the value have remained, the styles of wine on offer have become as dazzlingly complex as the slopes on which they’re grown.

The Wines of The Roussillon

The Roussillon lies in the extreme southwest of France, next to the border with Spain. I could spend hours talking about the soil structures (mental note: YouTube channel on soil structures. Influencer fame and fortune here I come) but it’s mainly clay/limestone, schist and gravel. The climate is warm, but the altitude creates a number of microclimates. This combination means it can provide an ideal home to a wide range of high-quality grapes.

For the longest time, Roussillon was best known for its fortified wines, the vin doux naturel. Lusciously sweet, cherry and chocolate-flavoured reds such as Banyuls, and apricot and honey-toned whites like Muscat de Rivesaltes enjoyed a reputation as high as that of Port.

Great as these wines are, the market is limited, and as far back as the 1980s speculation was rife as to what Roussillon could do with table wines. And just like the revolution that’s swept the wines of the Douro Valley, years of experimentation with sites and varieties are now paying substantial dividends, as the following wines demonstrate.

The Top 10 Wines of The Roussillon

When I last looked at Roussillon’s wines, they were almost exclusively red. Today you can find great rosé and white wines too. Take the Bila-Haut Blanc (Laithwaites £11.99) for example. Bila-Haut is leading Rhône producer Chapoutier’s home in the Roussillon and their expertise shines through. The Bila-Haut Blanc is mainly composed of Rhône grapes Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Marsanne. Fragrant with floral notes and citrus on the nose, on the palate there’s grapefruit, and white peach, before the smoky, mineral-laden finish.

Another wine that offers freshness, with complexity is the Les Sorcières du Clos des Fées Blanc 2022 (Yapp Brothers £17.25). This contains some Vermentino, which adds a green apple and lime touch along with a pinch of salt. I had this with grilled sardines, but I can see it working wonderfully well with poultry or creamy risotto.

If you’re looking for a wine that’s zesty enough to refresh, but textured and complex enough to satisfy, then take a look at the Res Fortes Roussillon 2019 (Res Fortes £16). Bold winemaking – they press whole bunches and use Grenache Gris (which isn’t in the least bit grey, by the way) – and some bottle age makes for outstanding wines. Pears, melon, red apple, and greengage, come together with a yeasty, mineral finish to give a wine of precision and depth. Were this from the Rhône you’d be looking at £50+ a bottle.

Encountering great rosé producers. Yet again though I was struck not just by the quality but the value. Take the Domaine Lafage Cotes du Roussillon Miraflors Rose (All About Wine £13.75). The elegant line of the bottle is reflected in the wine inside. Joyously fresh, pure red berries lead the velvet-footed charge, followed by notes of green grapes, watermelon, and raw blackberries before a lovely rush of peaches comes in at the end.

At the other end of the rosé scale, we have the L’Effet Papillon (Highbury Vintners £14.50). This is made by the Rivesaltes co-operative, so right in the heart of fortified country, and they seem to be on a mission to make powerful wines. This is an intense wine whose pure and precise strawberry fruit conveys a feeling of power and concentration. Spicy, tangy, and well-balanced, this would be brilliant with smoked trout, lemon chicken, or roasted guineafowl.

And so to reds. I’ve mentioned Bila-Haut already, and I make no apology for recommending their red too. The Bila-Haut Rouge (The Surrey Wine Cellar £12.95) shows how Roussillon’s wines are distinct and not mere ‘me-too’ Rhône wannabes. While plump and juicy, there’s a light-touch feel to the dark fruit. It’s medium-bodied and has an easy-to-love character that’s often missing in Rhônes, and the finish – a lovely mix of plums, cherries, and spiced berries – adds a further lift. While this is great with red meats, I think it’s even better with tomato or cheesy pasta.

I have to say that my next choice did feel like a blast from the past. The Mas Becha ‘Classique’ Rouge (Great Wines Direct, £19.72) had a ‘garrigue’ (wild herbs to you and me) taste to it. This full-throttled Grenache is packed to the gunnels with cherries, prunes, chocolate, and herbs, but again there’s a lift of red berry acidity that stops it from becoming plodding and one-dimensional. This would be superb with lamb or falafel – anything that needs a little juiciness to bring it to life.

I’ve mentioned the value of the Roussillon several times in this piece, an attribute that’s embodied in the Côtes du Roussillon Héritage Rouge, Château de Corneilla 2020 (The Wine Society £9.95). For under a tenner, you get a magnificently big, plush, old-school red that delivers the goods by the lorry load. Syrah-based, this is inky, spicy, and loaded with lip-staining blackberry, damson, and cherry fruit with interest added by a seasoning of black pepper and mint. Serve this one with your favourite strong cheeses.

Collioure has always been a great source of affordable, high-quality wines. Cooled by Mediterranean sea breezes and with a high percentage of schist – medium-grained metamorphic rock showing pronounced schistosity as my YouTube subscribers will know. This allows for the production of elegant, yet well-structured wines that are capable of ageing well. The Les Clos de Paulilles Collioure Rouge 2021 (Majestic £14.99) is a fine example of this. A spicy, blackcurrant-tined wine with plenty of black cherry, strawberry jam, and plum notes, it’s a lot of wine for the wine money and will partner red meats and full-flavoured cheeses.

I’ll finish with a flourish with the Mas de Montagnes Roussillon Villages (Waitrose £12.49). This typifies the newer style of fresher, refined Roussillon wines. A marriage of Syrah and Grenache, it offers black cherry, blueberry, and mulberry fruit overlain with touches of mint and almond, while the finish offers peppercorns and raspberries that add a savoury touch.

The Roussillon Reinvention

The Roussillon is another example of a region that’s successfully reinventing itself. Worldwide there’s demand for lighter, more food-friendly wines, and regions like the Roussillon are well-placed to take advantage of this. If you’re looking for wines that offer excellence, excitement, and value, then I recommend you look to the Roussillon and taste tomorrow’s superstars today.

Next time out, I’ll do a deep dive into the wonderful wines from Yalumba.

Cheers,
Giles

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Olly Murs Q&A

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Win a VIP hospitality day out for two at BetVictor Hungerford Day, Party In The Paddock at Newbury Racecourse on Saturday, 19th August, starring Olly Murs. Here’s our Q&A with the man himself…

Q. Not to give any spoilers away, but on your April arena tour you opened with a mash-up of your track Marry Me and Elton John’s I’m Still Standing. Was this a tribute to Elton, or a tongue in cheek reference to the knee injury you sustained last time you played at a racecourse?

“Yeah, exactly that! You’re right, and also a sort of for homage; I love that song. Plus I am still standing after all these years, 14 years in the game. After that amount of time people might doubt you, saying things like ‘is he going to be back? Is he going to be the same?’. I love Elton John anyway, but I agree with what you said, last time I did a racecourse gig in 2021 I felt like I’d given them a disservice really. I wasn’t my best and they had to physically take me off stage with four bouncers to move me! I couldn’t walk to the car! I feel like I’ve got to come back and give them one hell of a show, I can’t wait.”

Q. For your previous Newbury show you performed heroically with a knee brace, do you feel it’s a full-circle moment coming back to do this racecourse again this summer?

“It does 100%. Again, to me that whole tour two years ago felt like it wasn’t right. It felt weird, my knee wasn’t great. I was really battling through the emotions of it, and I did enjoy the show, but I was in so much pain. So now that I’m pain-free, I just feel ready to go out there and just give it my best, I can’t wait!”

Q. After Covid & injury does this feel like the first year in a while you’ve been out full tilt?

“Yeah, I just feel like the whole world is lit up now! Everyone is back, everyone’s living life, everyone’s enjoying themselves and it feels like a proper year. Everything feels back to normal, which is brilliant, and I’ve worked really hard. I’ve been super busy with work from filming The Voice to the tour. It’s been quite full-on preparing for, and in the midst of all that, getting married and organising a wedding!

Q. Some artists who have played racecourse shows have sometimes said the atmosphere is like a wonderful big wedding reception. There’s always some stag and hen parties there as well. Do you have any tips for those celebrating in the crowd now you’ve had your own stag?

“What advice would I give? The advice went out the window when I had a stag! Pace yourself, eat something, make sure you eat lots of food.”

Q. There’s always a massive diverse crowd at the racecourse shows. Do you find you change your setlist for the summer audiences?

“I always feel very conscious of that, you know. I’m not someone that thinks it’s all about me, I think that you have to play to an audience. Coming to a racecourse I know that so many people are there to enjoy themselves and to have fun. If they’re hearing say, track two off my fifth album that has no relevance to their night, they’re likely to think ‘what is this song? I want to hear Heart Skips A Beat, I want to hear Dance With Me Tonight, I want to hear all the hits!’ I always cater for every audience that I sing in front of and always make sure the setlist is right because I want people to walk away going… you know what? I like Olly Murs because not only does he do his own songs, but he also likes to mix it up by singing other songs.”

Q. Speaking about the newer songs, what has been the best crowd reactions you’ve had to any of your songs from your latest album Marry Me?

“I would say it’s I Hate When You’re Drunk. That’s a really great song to sing live and the reason is it’s a fun song, especially with the racecourses it’s going to go down a storm because everyone always drinks too much and there’s always going to be one person in your group of friends that you’re like, you know what… they’re doing my head in. So, I think this song will definitely get the best reaction!”

Q. You’ve performed a few times now at racecourses but you’ve also been as a guest, have you ever won anything or is it just a flash in the pan losing whenever you’re there?

“One year Kaiser Chiefs were playing so we went down for my mate’s 30th and it was brilliant. I think on one of the races we won a fair amount, and we were flying as that was only the second race or first race, but by the time we go to the last race our winnings were gone. We were super excited, and it was so fun, but you’ve got to be careful betting. I think that’s what’s so good about these shows in particular, the fact that you have a six-card afternoon of racing, where everyone can have a fantastic day out, then they get to see their favourite artists live. Honestly, I tell so many people who haven’t been to a music night at a racecourse before that they have to go and do it. It’s top entertainment, everyone comes, it’s a lovely day out with friends, families, or partners. You get to watch racing, where everyone can have a fantastic day out, then they get to see their favourite artists live. Honestly, I tell so many people who haven’t been to a music night at a racecourse before that they have to go and do it. It’s top entertainment, everyone comes, it’s a lovely day out with friends, families or partners. You get to watch racing, eat some good food, drink some wine, beer or cocktails and then you get to watch an act at the end of it. It’s just brilliant fun!”

Q. For those people who haven’t seen you before, can they expect from an Olly Murs headline gig?

“For me, it’s energy, fun and a bit of banter. It’s entertainment and it’s just a really good laugh. I think if you want to come and dance all night and listen to some classics while also listening to my own songs, you’ll get a bit of everything in my show. It’s really good fun and an energetic show. It’s not too serious, it’s just a really good night out.”

Tickets are on sale now at Newbury Racecourse

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Free lunch at M&S!

Round & About

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M&S are running an instant, Lucky Lunch giveaway, placing 7,500 £10 gift vouchers into random sandwiches.

You may think there’s no such thing as a ‘free’ lunch, but thanks to M&S there is! Running until 14th August is Lucky Lunch, an instant ‘gold ticket’ giveaway.

Buy any sandwich and try your chance at being one of the 7,500 lucky winners of a £10 M&S gift card! This gift card is perfect to use on your next lunch or even next two. Whether it be the classic BLT or the best-selling prawn mayonnaise, whatever sandwich you buy gives you a chance to win the gift card.

The best thing about M&S sandwiches are their quality, with them being made with 100% British butter and vitamin D enriched bread. Imagine getting to eat such a great sandwich and then finding out you won a £10 voucher so you can buy another one!

Owen Lilley, Product Developer for M&S, said that ‘the M&S sandwich has become part of Britain’s cultural heritage’ and has sold over ‘over 4 billion sandwiches since 1980′. With such whopping numbers, the sandwiches are bound to be delicious. So, if you are working and looking for a place to grab lunch, or simply just out and about, buy one of M&S’ sandwiches and enter the instant giveaway.

Author: Daisy Harwood

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Best New Zealand wines for 2023

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Discover more about New Zealand wines as Round and About’s columnist, Giles Luckett, shows there’s more to offer from the islands than Sauvignon Blanc…

Hello. I’ve been on a voyage of wine (re)discovery over the past few weeks. As you may remember from school geography lessons, the world is a pretty big place. And amongst this pretty big place are an increasing number of wine-producing countries. So many in fact that even the hardest drinking, sorry, tasting, wine professional can miss things. Regions you once followed closely slip into the periphery only to draw you back with a wine so startlingly good that you discover it anew. This is what happened to me a few weeks back when I was asked to sample some new-style New Zealand wines, including an unexpected and breathtaking Syrah, which has prompted me to create this top ten New Zealand wines list.

New Zealand: A Brief History of Wine

When I joined the wine trade in 1993, New Zealand wines – particularly Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – were everywhere. Cloudy Bay had launched in 1985 and its full-throttle, super-intense “cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush” style led Oz Clarke to deem it the world’s best Sauvignon. The drew everyone’s attention to the wines of this cool climate land. Soon other regions on the North and South Island became known, and everything from buttery Chardonnay to strikingly elegant Pinot Noir became the biggest things from New Zealand to hit the UK since Crowded House’s Woodface.

Sauvignon ruled the roost. Harrods sold Cloudy Bay on allocation to a (very) select few, and other leading estates such as Wairau River, Esk Valley, Villa Maria and Te Mata also became hugely sought-after. Inevitably, over time tastes and fashion changed, and just as Australia had its ABC (anything but Chardonnay) backlash, so New Zealand saw the rise of the ABS (anything but Sauvignon) league.

A fire had been lit, however, and while Sauvignon’s star burned less brightly, the amazing possibilities of this emerging wine nation weren’t going to be left to wither on the vine. New varieties were planted, site selection explored, and winemaking innovation deployed to produce a crop of wines that were as exciting as those early Sauvignons.

My recent reappraisal of New Zealand wines proved revelatory, and here are my top ten New Zealand wines. And you know what, there’s not a varietal Sauvignon in sight…

Top Ten New Style New Zealand Wines

First up, a Riesling, the Adnams Marlborough Riesling (Adnams £9.99). Marlborough is a cool climate area on the northern tip of the South Island. While it’s best known for its Sauvignons, it’s varieties like Riesling that are now getting the wine world juiced up. Adnams’ is made in the European style and weighs in at just 9% alcohol. This leaves some residual sugar which serves to balance the bright, lemon and lime acidity, and green apple and white currant fruit. Delicious on its own, it’s even better with poultry, white fish, or seafood.

Staying on the South Island, but moving to the edge of the Tasman Bay we have the small region of Nelson. This is another home for vines that like cooler climes and it’s given us the Waimea Estates Grüner Veltiner 2021 (Majestic £10.99). Gruner is Austria’s most acclaimed white grape, one that’s finding flavour in California, Australia and, excitingly, here in New Zealand. This too has been left with a little residual, and here it gives a tropical fruit tone with a tangy, fresh, rhubarb and lemon finish. I thought this was lovely on its own, but I can see it being superb with oriental dishes.

My next pick is the Esk Valley Artisanal Albariño (Noble Grape £12.99). Hawkes Bay lies to the east of the North Island and is best known for its red blends – if you ever get offered a glass of Esk Valley’s Terraces (£95), a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec grab it, (and the bottle if you can). It’s amazing and worth every penny. Esk Valley’s Albariño is pretty special too. While Albariño is most closely associated with Portugal and Spain where it’s favoured in celebrated seafood restaurants, it’s made itself at home in New Zealand. Classically styled, it has masses of freshness, is clean as a freshly polished whistle and boasts flavours that range from grapefruit and lemon to melon and stone fruit with a yeasty, savouriness to the finish. A superb aperitif, this is a wine with hidden depths. Give it a couple of hours open and it will bring out the best in creamy cheese dishes and poultry such as guinea fowl as a peachy, apricot tone adds depth and complexity.

And so we come to the first two rosé wines. The first is the Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Blush (Asda £8). I said there was no varietal Sauvignon and the addition of Merlot to give this colour has saved my blushes. While there’s a lot of Sauvignon character, it’s softened and rounded out by the plum, rose petal and cherry notes from the Merlot. Beautifully coloured, bright, and bursting with energy, this is great fun and was made for good company in the sunshine.

While Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon always got the plaudits (for the record I think the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are better wines), the real star in Cloudy Bay’s firmament is the Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rosé (Majestic £23.99). New Zealand has perfect conditions for making world-beating sparkling wines and this is a world-class wine. Pale salmon with amber lowlights, the nose is a complex, evolved mix of strawberries, raspberries, and red cherries, cut with citrus, creamy yeast, and a hint of cranberry spice. It’s a class act. One that goes surprisingly well with food including fish pate, salmon or lamb.

And so to the reds.

No article on the best New Zealand red wines would be complete without Pinot Noir, as Pinot Noir has a mystique about it. The best New Zealand Pinots are up there with the best of the New World, and while they share some characteristics with other regions such as Australia’s Mornington Peninsula or South Africa’s Western Cape, theirs tend to be more European in style.

Take the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir (Noble Green £14.50). This is a Pinot worth getting excited about. Mid-purple, with a nose of sun-warmed fruits of the forest with raspberries and creamy oak, it’s a cheery, inviting opening. In the mouth, there are more black and red fruits wrapped in a soft, velvety body with a hint of just-ripe red cherry keeping it fresh. At first, it’s quite sedate, but as you sip so the flavour builds and it offers a persistent shot of very pure, spiced berry fruit with a citrusy edge that’s beguiling. Try it with red meat or tomato-based dishes.

With its marginal climate and free-draining soils, many regions in New Zealand have successfully produced Bordeaux blends. A fine example is Pask’s Gimblett Road Cabernet Merlot Malbec (House of Townend £14.95). Hailing from the Gimblett Gravels wine district in Hawke’s Bay (which isn’t technically a district but a brand – I know, because wine really needs to be made more complicated) the gravel, silts and clay soils force vines to dig deep for nutrients as they do in Bordeaux. The result is a deeply coloured wine with a nose of cassis, green peppers and blueberries. The palate is fresh-tasting and elegant, with abundant black berry fruits offsets by flavours of vanilla, plums, and a savoury, smoked red berry freshness.

I’ll stay in Hawkes Bay for my next recommendation, the Esk Valley Artisanal Syrah (Noble Green Wines £19.50) though this could hardly be more different. There are relatively few Syrah plantings in New Zealand the quality can be showstopping. Esk Valley’s brilliance shines through, with a wine that offers a bevy of peppered red fruits, black cherries, oriental spices, violets, vanilla, crushed nuts and a lift of berry acidity. This is a glorious take on Syrah, one that is drinking well now but which has the structure and fruit to age and develop.

Next is another Pinot, the Adnams Central Otago Pinot Noir (Adnams £19.99). Central Otago used to be the world’s most southerly wine region – that’s now in Argentina, though ask me in 6 months and it will probably be somewhere else! Central Otago is a great, if challenging, place to make any wine, but trying to tame Pinot here must be like herding feral cats. It is worth the effort though. The Adnams offers a delightful blend of red cherry and strawberry fruit with highlights of cranberry and a suggestion of peppermint tea. Medium-bodied, it’s silky with a creamy vanilla note, and the persistence of flavour makes it feel bigger than it is while remaining elegant and precise.

I’ll finish with another leftfield wine, the Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo (Simply Wines Direct £18.99). For the longest time, Tempranillo was only found in Spain. Despite its quality, it remained in Spain, rather like Sangiovese in Italy. Recently I’ve seen it popping up California, Argentina and now here. Plantings are few, but the potential is phenomenal. Juicy, spicy, and packed with bramble, plum, mulberry, and citrus peel fruit notes, there’s more than a whiff of Rioja about this. On the palate, it reveals itself to be very much its own wine, though. Opulently deep, it flashes between the sweet and savoury as blackberries vie with chocolate, liquorice and herbs. This is a must-try with pan-fried liver or strong hard cheeses.

Well, I hope my top ten new-style New Zealand Wines will inspire you to explore New Zealand’s fascinating and fast-evolving wine scene.

Next time I’ll look at another region that’s challenging traditional perceptions as I take a tour of France’s Roussillon.

More soon…
Giles

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Delicious grill deal at M&S

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M&S are here to feed your BBQ obsession with their three for £12 grill deal of bangers, burgers and kebabs

Do you love BBQs? Are you searching to find new dishes to impress your friends and family? M&S are here to the rescue. With their new three for £12 grill deal, you can make both your friends and your taste buds happy!

Not only do M&S offer such a banging deal, but they also offer a new range of bangers, burgers and kebabs, which holds a vast range of flavours. Having a staycation, but fancy a trip to Asia? Try their Asian-style chicken wing kebabs. If Greece is more your style, indulge in their Greek-style pork skewers. Where you are at home or away, M&S grant the opportunity to experience all the flavours from your very own home with their new selection.

Vegan? Don’t fret! They have a very special treat for you! M&S have made sure that there is something for everyone and have officially introduced their iconic posh dogs as a vegan dish as well. Now everyone can enjoy the BBQ together with their new selection, with food requirements posing no threat.

Still craving more flavours after this? Well, M&S still have plenty to please you! Explore their range of sauces to spice up your meals. From Piri Piri Marinade to Buffalo Sauce, they have a number of different sauces perfect for marinating, dipping and drizzling your dishes with, making them even more delicious.

Has this taken your interest? Click here to find out more: Best Ever BBQ.

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Best wines for summer barbecues

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Discover the best barbecue wines for the summer. Round & About’s Magazine’s wine columnist Giles Luckett shares his red, white and rose recommendations

Hello. The great British Summer wouldn’t be the same without the great British barbecue. Sociable, affordable, and fun, they’re a great excuse for an alfresco glass of wine or two. But which ones? Barbecued food is one of the trickier food and wine matches. OK, it’s not as tricky as mutton vindaloo (Merlot, by the way. My fiery food-loving friend swears by it), but it presents challenges. The combination of fish, fowl, flavourings and flame all need to be considered. Traditionally bigger the better was the approach, but with chefs such as double Michelin star winner Tom Kerridge taking barbecuing seriously, here are some equally serious selections for your summer’s alfresco dining.

Let’s begin in a civilised fashion with a fizz. Well, two, actually – you can never have too much fizz, that’s my motto. The first is the Villa Maria Sparkling Cuvée Brut (Sainsbury’s on offer at £11 down from £14). I’ve been a big fan of Villa Maria’s wines since the late 1990s, but I’d not come across this until recently. A blend of mainly Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir, it offers New World joy with Old World complexity. Golden in colour and with a nose of apple crumble, the soft, textured palate offers melon, peaches, and pears and a touch of tropical fruit and honey. It’s a delightful solo sipper, but it has the weight and character to partner with seafood or white fish.

My second recommendation comes straight out of the Bonza Barbie Book! (Cliché Publications £9.99), it’s the Bleasdale Langhorne Creek Sparkling Shiraz (the Wine Society £12.95). Good sparkling Shiraz is one of the wine world’s great oddities. A hefty, moderately acidic, thick-skinned peppery grape should not make good fizz, but this is one of those so wrong its right wines. The Bleasdale has a lovely purple colour crowned by pink foam. The nose is a riot of crushed blackcurrants, with peppery mint notes in the background. For me, it was love at first sip, as raspberries, chocolate, and yeast offset the sweetly toned, spicy blackberry fruits. Good on its own, it’s amazing with honey mustard chicken.

And so on to the whiter side of life. Whites and barbecued food can be tricky. Too much new oak and your mouth can feel like you’ve smoked a Woodbine; too little body and it gets drowned out; too much acidity and it can taste harsh and sour. So, what to serve…?

Well, you can start with a white Rioja. White Rioja is one of the great unsung heroes of the wine world. Take the Cune Barrel Fermented Rioja (Waitrose £7.99 on offer down from £9.99 (still a bargain at £9.99)). This is at once creamy and luxurious yet clean and crisp. No, I’ve no idea how they manage it, I’m just glad they do. It offers masses of red apple, apricot and grape fruit with undertones of vanilla, honey and crushed nuts before a lemony finish sweeps in. This is a great glassful that will stand up to barbecued white meats or fish while being equally at home on its own.

Alternatively, why not try a Riesling? Something like the Trimbach 2019 (West End Wines £19.50). Despite its appearance, name, grape and historical-geographic alignment (best not open the Treaty of Versailles debate here) this is from Frances’ Alsace. Trimbach has been making wine since 1626, and I have to say they’ve really got the hang of it. Elegance, purity, and intensity are the watchwords here. The bouquet melds white berries, blossom, citrus, and a hint of honey, while the palate offers green apples and white currants before pears, grapefruit, and minerals come in at the finish. Medium-bodied, but with such dazzling persistence, this is sublime with fish, white meats, and green salads.

A pause for a rosé thought. I’ve always found rosé to be good with barbecued fish, seafood, and white meats, but most struggle to match smoky red meats. I’ve tried newer styles of rosé that put the emphasis on power and while they work to an extent, the lower acidity means something vital is lost. A wine that manages to match all grilled foods with effortless aplomb is the Muga Rosado (Waitrose £10.99). Pretty as a pink picture, this is an upfront style of rosé with juicy citrus mingling with red berries, apricots and cranberries.

My first red is the Gaia Red Blend 2019 (Vintage Roots £17.95), which is another clever conjuring trick of a wine. An intriguing blend of Argentinean Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, its inky blue-black colour and nose of super-ripe smoked black berries, cherries, coffee, and prunes give you an impression of all-out power. When you taste it, however, you find balance, harmony, and a lightness of touch. While the juicy Malbec black and blueberry tones lead the charge, there are fruits of the forest, mint, warm spices, and a lovely floral lift that make it feel poised and precise. I had this with steak – it was a perfect foil – but it would be just as good with roasted veg with garlic, grilled halloumi, or blackened peppers stuffed with couscous.

My next recommendation is a stone-cold classic – though serve it at room temperature for best results. It’s the Journey’s End V5 Cabernet Franc (Ocado £18). This was my first encounter with a South African Cabernet Franc. In fact, it was my first encounter with a varietal Cabernet Franc in years. Too often, I find the leafy blackcurrant tone rather green and sour. This had none of that. Very deeply coloured, on opening the nose offered cassis, peppers and black cherries with a lovely leafy herb note. Full-bodied yet fresh, it offers everything from brambles and cherries to smoky vanilla, graphite, star anise and plums. An hour open and exuberance turned to subtlety, and flavours of chocolate and strawberry came through. I had it with a heavily peppered steak, and it was excellent. The juiciness and the wine’s dry tannins complimented the food perfectly.

And finally, something for the adventurous amongst you. If you’re the sort of person who does quail piri piri or slaps a lobster on the grill (I’m free that evening, by the way) then the Au Bon Climat Santa Maria 2021 Pinot Noir (Berry Bros. & Rudd £31) is for you. This last vintage of the founder and Californian wine pioneer Jim Clendenen is a suitably fitting tribute to a man who did more for American Pinot and Chardonnay than anyone else. Gorgeous nose of red and black berries, roses, and cocktail cherries with a touch of menthol, the palate is tightly packed with strawberry, blackberry, black cherry and vanilla notes, that are lent further complexity by meaty tones, and a savoury edge. The bright acidity means it will happily partner fish, foul, or flesh, but make sure you give it a couple of hours open.

“The bright acidity means it will happily partner fish, foul, or flesh.”

Well, I’m off to fire up the grill – those unami mushroom burgers won’t burn, I mean cook, themselves.

Next time I’ll take a look at the wines of New Zealand – surprises are in store…

More soon,
Giles

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Our Q&A with author Alison Weir

Liz Nicholls

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Bestselling author & historian Alison Weir, one of the stars of Guildford Book Festival in October, shares a few thoughts with us…

Q. Hello Alison. Henry VIII occupies a large place in the nation’s heart? What is the most surprising aspect of him that is maybe lesser-known?

“That he was a thinking man, who cared deeply about the laws passed by his Parliaments, an intellectual who read the classics for pleasure, and a talented musician and composer.”

Q. Do the experiences of this Harry perhaps shine a light on the newsworthy experiences of our modern-day Prince Harry, do you think?

“I’m not sure how they would do so, as I believe that the experiences of both were shaped by their vastly different upbringings and those who were in a position to influence them. What they have in common is the loss of their mothers when they were just boys – but then they had very different mothers, so that loss would have impacted in different ways.”

Q. Would you like to live in Tudor times (even for a day), and if so why?

“Probably not! Unless I could be a noble lady in a beautiful country house, but even then I shudder to think of living without access to painkillers if I needed them, and of the poor hygiene of the age. I’d like to go back to discover the truth behind some of the most dramatic events of the age, such as the fall of Anne Boleyn, but to do that I’d have to be close to events, which would be way too dangerous!

Q. You are an oracle on our history… Having done so much research, which queen do you have most admiration for?

“My favourite queen of all would have to be Elizabeth I. What a survivor! She inherited a bankrupt kingdom at the age of 25 and was regarded by Catholic Europe as a bastard, a heretic and a usurper – and she was a woman in man’s world. But she was still there, revered as Gloriana, 44 years later!”

Q. Did you enjoy school? And where did your love of history begin?

“I did, but they didn’t teach the history about which I wanted to learn. When I was 14, and had graduated from books to pop magazines, my mother marched me into an adult library and told me to get a book! I wandered around, bored, until I saw the lurid jacket of a novel called Henry’s Golden Queen by Lozania Prole. I devoured it in two days and raced off the school library to find out the truth behind the fiction – and I’m still searching for it today!”

Q. Which royal palace in the UK is worth a visit, or perhaps underappreciated?

“To get some idea of the magnificence of the Tudor Court, the best palace to visit is Hampton Court – it’s stunning, even if most of the Tudor private royal apartments don’t survive. To see a complete set of them, in the wing built for the visit of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn in 1535, I recommend visiting beautiful Acton Court in Gloucestershire, a remarkable survival.”

Q. Who was your favourite author growing up? And now?

“My favourite was Norah Lofts, the novelist – and she still is. I have all 63 of her books. She was one of the great unsung writers of the 20th century.”

“My favourite was Norah Lofts, the novelist – and she still is.”

Q. Do you think our monarchy will continue, and continue to win public support, in King Charles’ reign and beyond?

“I’m a great monarchist, so I very much hope so. I think the King sets a fine example and it’s clear that there is a lot of good will and public support for him.”

Q. What’s your favourite piece of music?

“There are so many that it’s hard to choose! It’s a toss between the Pavanne la Bataille (1551) performed by David Munrow and the Early Music Consort of London of You Don’t See Me by the Sisters of Mercy.”

Q. What do you do to unwind, when you’re not writing and researching?

“I exercise, get together with my husband and/or friends over a meal, or watch TV. When I get time, I update i-Tunes or my extensive collection/catalogue of royal portraits. I’ve been collecting images since the 1960s, and have well over 100,000 on my computer, not counting those in hard copy.”

Q. If you could make one wish for the world, what would it be?

“Universal peace and harmony.”

Visit Guildford Book Festival: History Day.

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Grill seekers! Tom Kerridge barbecue recipes 

Round & About

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We’re serving up two summer sizzlers from Tom Kerridge’s Outdoor Cooking, published by Bloomsbury with photographs © Cristian Barnett

Ultimate hot dog (serves four)

These hot dogs are based on everyone’s favourite Christmas side: pigs in blankets. Like Christmas trees, hot dogs are thought to originate in Germany, so I’ve added a bit of curry powder, German mustard and Bavarian cheese as a nod to that. Great to cook outside on a cold day!

Ingredients:

Barbecue burnt onions
• 2 large onions, finely sliced
• 3 tbsp vegetable oil

Pigs in blankets
• 4 jumbo sausages
• 2 heaped tsp mild curry powder
• 12 rashers of streaky bacon

German mustard mayo
• 100g thick mayonnaise
• 40g German mustard
• 3 tsp finely chopped shallot
• 10 cornichons, finely sliced
• 2 tbsp finely chopped dill
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

To assemble
• 4 long hot dog rolls
• 8 thick slices of smoked Bavarian cheese
• 8 large slices of dill pickle
• A bunch of spring onions, green part only, finely sliced

Method:

1. To cook the onions, place a cast-iron pan on the hot barbecue and add the oil. When it is hot, add the onions with a generous pinch of salt. Stir well and cook for about 20 minutes until softened, dark and caramelised.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the sausages. Poke a metal skewer through the length of each sausage and lay the skewers on a tray. Season with the curry powder, trying to get an even coating all over the sausages. Wrap each one in bacon, using 3 rashers per sausage, and secure the bacon with a couple of cocktail sticks.
3. Lay the bacon-wrapped sausages on the hot barbecue and cook for about 10 minutes, turning every minute or two. While they are on the barbecue, mix the German mustard mayo ingredients together in a bowl, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste; set aside until needed.
4. Once the sausage are cooked through, lift them off the barbecue and place on a tray. Remove the cocktail sticks and metal skewers.
5. To build the hot dogs, slit the rolls open through the top and lay the cheese slices in them. Add the baconwrapped sausages and top with plenty of caramelised onions and the pickle slices.
6. Place the hot dogs on a sturdy baking tray on the barbecue, put the lid on and leave for a minute or two so that the cheese becomes all gooey and melted. Transfer the hot dogs to plate and spoon on the German mayo. Scatter over the spring onions for freshness and serve.

Tandoori fish skewers (makes eight)

Salmon has a high fat content so it stays lovely and moist when cooked over direct heat. It can also be eaten a bit pink in the middle, so you don’t need to worry about undercooking it either. Quick pickled red onions cut through the rich flavours, as well as adding amazing colour.

Ingredients:

• 8 skinless salmon fillets (about 125g)
• 2 large garlic cloves, grated
• 2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, grated
Juice of 1 lime
• 200g Greek yoghurt
• 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
• 1 tsp ground tumeric
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 2 tsp ground coriander
• 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
• A little vegetable oil to brush
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pickled red onions
• 2 small red onions
• 125ml water
• 125ml white wine vinegar
• ½ tsp fennel seeds
• ½ tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tbsp salt
• 2 tbsp sugar

To serve
• Naan bread or roti
• A handful of coriander leaves
• 1 long green chilli, finely sliced
• Lime halves
• Sweet chilli sauce

Method:

1. Prepare your pickled red onions an hour or so ahead. Slice the onions and place in a clean jar or bowl. Put the water, wine vinegar, fennel and cumin seeds, salt and sugar into a small pan over a medium heat and stir until the sugar and salt are fully dissolved. Pour the hot pickling liquor over the onions and leave to cool slightly. Pop the lid on (or cover the bowl) and place in the fridge to pickle.
2. To prepare the salmon, cut each fillet into four equal-sized chunks. Place these in a bowl with the garlic, ginger and lime juice and mix well.
3. In another bowl, mix the yoghurt with the spices and some salt and pepper. Add this spiced yoghurt to the salmon and mix well again. Leave to marinate in a cool place for at least 20 minutes, or up to an hour. Meanwhile, if using wooden skewers soak eight of them in water to avoid scorching on the barbecue.
4. Once marinated, thread the salmon onto your skewers, putting four chunks onto each skewer.
5. Brush the hot barbecue grid lightly with a little oil then lay the skewers on it. Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden brown and lightly charred. Meanwhile, warm the naan or roti on the edge of the barbecue. Once cooked, transfer the skewers to a warm plate.
6. Serve the skewers on the warm naan or roti. Scatter over a little pickled red onion, some coriander and sliced green chilli. Serve with lime halves for squeezing over, and sweet chilli sauce on the side.

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Make a splash

Karen Neville

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Water, water everywhere or at any rate over 71 per cent of the world’s surface and there’s plenty to enjoy where we are too in pools, lidos, lakes, water and splash parks

At this time of year with temperatures on the up and the need to cool off, nothing can beat the urge to enjoy a dip in a pool or a splash in the sea.

Find pools / lidos / splash parks near you:
Berkshire
Buckinghamshire
Oxfordshire
Surrey
West Berkshire & Wiltshire

Berkshire

The obvious first port of call is your local pool or lido. The historic Thames Lido is anything but just a pool for a swim and to cool off, tuck into Mediterranean tapas and mains in a glass-walled space at the historic renovated pool in the heart of Reading. The outdoor pool is heated year round and if you like it hot why not try the saunas or hot tub? Spoil yourself with a massage, or make a day of it with a delicious lunch or try the twilight package with a swim, use of hot tub / sauna, a massage and glass of Prosecco – heaven!

If it’s rowdy, crazy water fun you’re after then Coral Reef Waterworld in Bracknell is a must. One of the largest interactive water worlds in England, it has a huge range of different ways to enjoy the water with thrilling waterslides, an erupting volcano, a pirate ship and a variety of other features, there’s something for everyone in the pool area. If you’re after something a little more chilled, the adults-only Coral Spa area is the ideal place to relax and get away from it all.

Caversham Lakes is a natural open space showcasing the great outdoors and nature in what is a real social sanctuary with a safe playground set on a freshwater lake in the heart of the Thames Valley. There’s something for everyone – open water swimming, stand up paddle boarding, make a splash with aqua park fun, the family beach is a great place to relax in the sun or follow a nature trail.

Bucks

Wycombe Rye Lido boasts a 33m heated pool, with grass and terraced sunbathing areas, a summer’s day at Wycombe Rye Lido is a day dream come true. It has all year round heating, and also sports underwater lights for those who want to swim when the sun goes down.

Longridge Activity Centre in Marlow is another option for a fun day out on the water with kayaking, canoeing, dragon boating, rafting and bell boating all available in addition to a wide range of land-based activities to throw yourself into too. Book on to an activity day or check out the weekend courses. Stand-up paddleboarding, canoeing and kayaking can also be tried at Engage Watersports in Taplow who “learn by having fun”.

Providing a first-class outdoor swimming facility that makes a positive contribution both to the community and to the health and wellbeing of the residents of Woburn and the surrounding areas is the mission of Woburn Lido and they are achieving this with their 23 metres long and nine metres wide pool. The variable depth of the pool also makes it perfect for both families and lane swimmers.

Water safety tips

It is never a good idea to swim alone in open water, even if you are highly experienced. Beginners should always swim with another more experienced swimmer or at a venue with safety crew or lifeguards.

Choose your venue carefully. NOWCA affiliated venues require all swimmers to wear a NOWCA wristband. The sophisticated safety system allows the crew to keep track of who is in the water.

Open water spaces can harbour harmful microbes. Make sure the venue meets requirements (Directive 2006/7/EC and Bathing Water Regulations 2013).

Go at your own pace. Swim in the stroke you are most comfortable with – except backstroke, you need to see where you are going! Start with a short swim course. If you do find yourself in trouble, stay calm and raise your hand so the safety crew can assist you.

Remember to have fun! There is a strong supportive community and it’s a great social activity. Learn from other swimmers and their experiences. Visit (nowca.org) for more.

Oxfordshire

Growing up I spent many an hour in the summer at the Abbey Meadows Outdoor Pool in Abingdon. Newly renovated and heated (which it definitely wasn’t in my time), it offers lane swimming and ‘swim for all’ sessions. Parents can sit back and watch kids playing under the spray fountain in the splash pad in the park. Abbey Meadows Outdoor Pool is a fully accessibly facility, with ramp access and toilet facilities.

Really make a splash at Oxford Wet ‘n’ Wild at Queenford Lake, the park offers activities for all ages – run wild on the inflatable obstacle course and slides or hire paddleboards and kayaks. Whether you are a competitive swimmer, a triathlete or just enjoy wild swimming, the lake at Berinsfield is a very popular spot with four well-marked loops to navigate of distances from 350m to 1,000m – it’s the ideal spot for triathletes who like a cycle after their swim. Rinse off after in the outdoor lakeside shower and spend some time at the Wandering Kitchen café, the ‘burger & swim’ is a top choice!

Leisurely swim or fun splash time with the kids? Whichever you’re after Riverside Park and Pools in Wallingford next to the Thames and is the ideal spot. The heated outdoor pool offers a variety of sessions, including Swim for Fitness, Swim for All, Outdoor Aqua Aerobics and Swim Doctor. The Jubilee Splash Pad has been refurbished to create a more modern and fun splash pad for youngsters to enjoy.

Surrey

Guildford Lido is one of the country’s few remaining original 1930s pools and one of the most popular, attracting more than 60,000 visitors on average each season and it’s not hard to see why. Set in four and a half acres of landscaped gardens, the heated Olympic size pool is the ideal spot to chill out, have fun (there’s a mini golf course too), take a picnic and swim, of course. If you like to make a splash there are three exciting slides to whizz down including a mini slide for water babies.

The large paddling pool in Stoke Park, Guildford is shallow enough for tots of all ages to enjoy a refreshing dip. A beach design on the yellow part and the flow of the pool comes up gently to make youngsters feel at ease. A play park, mini golf and 52 acres of glorious gardens make it a great spot to spend a few hours all round.

Aldershot Lido is the largest open air pool in Hampshire and is the perfect spot to spend a hot summer’s day. Three fun waterslides (suitable for 8 years+), a toddler paddling pool and large sandpit, 1m mixed diving board, picnic area in a scenic landscaped garden, basketball area and refreshments all make this a very popular place to cool off.

West Berkshire & Wiltshire

The 150-year-old Newbury Lido has undergone a renovation and while the pool itself has been reduced in length to 50m, it now boasts a new splash toddler pad and racer slides. The revamp means the pool is shallower to allow easier maintenance. New changing facilities have also been added to improve the overall experience to make summer more enjoyable for all. Pre-booking has been introduced this year too.

How about this to add some real glamour and style to your wild swimming experience? Wasing Estate at Aldermaston invites you to enjoy the beautiful tranquillity of the woodland lake as you enjoy a dip before warming up again in the wood-fired sauna and enjoying the stunning views across the lake. You need to be a member here to enjoy this level of luxury, you’ll be more than rewarded for splashing out!

A 25 metre, deck level, pool catering for a wide range of local swimmers and clubs can be found at The Link Centre, Swindon; Marlborough Leisure Centre; Kennet Leisure Centre in Thatcham and Hungerford leisure Centre; all have 25m pools – perfect for swimming some lengths.

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